Blogs from Perm, Urals, Russia, Europe - page 2

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Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm May 5th 2009

A couple weeks ago I revisited Kudimkar, the delightful and snowy capital of the formerly autonomous Perm-Komi region. Some of the Perm-Komi people still speak Komi, but I’d bet English is probably more widespread these days. Svetlana of Kudimkar (to differentiate her from Sveta my wife) invited me to address of conference of English teachers. The two-day trip required the usual 10,000 forms, and as they were all in Russian, completing them fell on Sveta (the wife). I prepared a couple of my lessons. Perhaps the most appealing part of this little escape was that it came in the middle of a busy week - meaning if the forms were complete and signed, I had an ironclad excuse to miss nearly all of my Wednesday and Thursday classes. I boarded the bus at 6:50 and arrived ... read more

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm March 3rd 2009

Monday was “Men’s Day.” This is an important Russian holiday, so I didn’t work. Leading up to and following my day, women would approach me and say “I’d like to congratulate you on this Men’s Day." They had previously congratulated me on both Thanksgiving and Christmas, as if it had been me who had fed the Pilgrims or lay in the manger. Anyway, for my first Men’s day, my colleagues gave me a pack of vitamins. DYNAMISM brand. Then midway through my Tuesday night class, the students left. This wasn’t unexpected. We normally take a break. But they returned with a cake, coffee, and a bottle of champagne. Like that guy in “Lola,” I was glad I’m a man. Officially Men’s Day is “Defenders of the Fatherland Day,” and it used to be Red Army Day. ... read more
Falling in Barda
Lena, Ismail,and their daughter
Exploring Kudymkar

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm January 12th 2009

It was the night of Russian Christmas, January 7, and the bathhouse anteroom was freezing. As I disrobed I noticed that the black furry thing hanging on the wall was not a fur hat at all, but a severed cow head - perfectly preserved. I was too cold to feel surprised. I turned away, threw open the door and entered the bathhouse proper. Sveta and I celebrated Christmas in the village of Stashkova at her Aunt Vala’s farmhouse. Joining us were Aunt Vera and two of Vala’s five children plus their assorted friends, family, and hangers-on. The number of guests relative to the number of rooms made for interesting sleeping arrangements that night. Vala kept a good table, and I ate well into the early morning, before heading out to the bathhouse. Vodka, champagne, and Carlsburg ... read more
Woolen Boots
River and me
River and Sveta

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm January 3rd 2009

To close out 2008, I lost my wallet. This is the same one that survived a night on a Utah ski slope and an afternoon stranded at the corner of 11th and M streets. Four times I lost and recovered it on the UNL campus. One of those times a couple students of mine found it outside the Union and brought to my office giggling. "It was always running away," Sveta explained. This time, it appears to have made a successful escape. But even more than is usual, the lost wallet in Russia led to too much time being spent trying to contact credit card companies. Ultimately the folks back home were put in charge of that. While Sveta made last minute, year-end trips to the dentist, I prepared nachos and chili for the Vorontsov New ... read more
Alexander, me
Young Spectators
At the American Corner

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm December 31st 2008

Perm Stage I: Jizzel and Thanksgiving My connections with the Perm stage began a month and a half ago, when Sveta and I accompanied an American attorney to the ballet Jizzel. Permians take great pride in their ballet house and company. I’ve been told by a number of English teachers, including Sveta, that the Perm ballet school is the second best in all of Russia. Only the academy in St. Petersburg is more renowned. That would be the academy for St. Petersburgers. I guess that’s how one calls a resident of St. Petersburg. This means that someone from Hamburg is called a Hamburger. But Perm has a distinguished high art history. Diaghilev, leader of the Ballet Rus called Perm home and Tchaikovsky came from a town to the south. Jizzel was my first live ballet experience, ... read more
Bradford cowers
Bradford explains

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm December 16th 2008

We returned from Moscow yesterday evening and fetched the cat. Rosie’s grown big; she ate well at the Vorontsov’s. They fed her milk and tried, unsuccessfully, to introduce her to pelmeni (a Russian-style ravioli) and sausage. I hope the experience has broadened the cat’s horizons. Maybe she’ll hiss at strangers less frequently. Before we dropped her off there was lots of running around "Have you seen her dinosaur?" I had not. The dinosaur was found and the cat deposited. I made my first trip to the capital to participate in Moscow State University’s American Studies Conference. I presented a paper on American Golden Age radio, a short synopsis of the first chapter of my dissertation. I read my paper in English. I think I was the only one. Needless to say, the mostly-Russian proceedings left me ... read more
Laika
The Lenin Library with head
A small temple atop the palace

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm November 14th 2008

Teaching at Perm State University presents unique problems. Because you can never be too secure, every classroom at PSU is locked when not in use (and when in use many have a camera trained directly on the instructor). And every building has a key guard: an old woman in scrubs who sits behind a window and distributes keys. During the first week of class, the key guard of building 5 flatly refused me the key to room 107, until an angry call from my chair to give “the nice foreign gentleman” what he needed. Often, the key guard is absent, polishing the keys perhaps, and a line of professors - none of them in any particular hurry - forms. But I’m too critical. One of the most pleasant women I’ve met is the key guard of ... read more

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm November 13th 2008

On the train I am in a Cabin with 4 beds there is just me and a French girl in there, she is living in French Guiana (South America) working as a social worker although she is originally from Paris. In my Wagon there is me, my French roommate, 1 American, 2 French, 2 Swedish, 1 from Norway and 8 Chinese Girls. The train is not very full and most people have space in their cabins this is probably due to the time of the year….alot of people in Moscow and on my way there said it was crazy to do this trip in the winter. Every few hours the train stops and people can get off and buy things from the station, there are small shops on the platform or sometimes there are local people ... read more
Trees
Typical Houses
View

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm October 19th 2008

I returned to Perm from Helsinki a month ago on a red eye, arriving at 5 am. Sveta was at the airport and together we bussed it back to the apartment. I showered and brushed my teeth and we were on the bus to the University. It was a Tuesday, and I hadn’t been to a class in over two weeks. So I was a bit surprised that any students bothered showing up. But there they were, waiting. Later that day, I picked up a second job teaching at a private English language training institute called Britannia. By Friday, I had a third (albeit temporary) position teaching ninth graders and was in the classroom that day and the next (Russian schools operate on Saturday – poor kids). Over the weekend, I agreed to host the American ... read more
Fall in the Urals
Watch tower
River and Sveta

Europe » Russia » Urals » Perm October 12th 2008

12.10.08 Outside it's 2°. Today we've been walking under the first snow of our season. Apart from that today has been quite a failure. Thanks to the help of our receptionist we managed to get the bus to Kungur this morning. Everything in a rush as usual when it's about early morning! At the bus stop we meet Victor, an old man, very nice, that was probably curious about us and wanted to be helpful. We've been chatting for a while in this now familiar way, in different languages and with great help from gestures and mimic. When he got on his bus he waved at us until we were out of sight. Making a long story short, we got to Kungur, we spent hours in the cold wandering around looking for the Ice Cave, no ... read more
Stalactites
Ice Cave
Along the cave




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