Being in Russia off-season has advantages and disadvantages. The major plus is that everywhere is quiet - that means no queues, and a bed in any hostel we choose, and Russians not sick to death of tourists, but also that we have the chance to get a sense of the natural vibe of the places we visit, rather than being lost in throngs of frenetic tourists. Overall, I'm glad to be here out of season. The downside, though, is that some places are closed for renovation, or just because it is off-season, or they don't look their best at this time of year. And so it was with Peterhof, which was open, but not ready: no fountains at this time of year, the outside of the palace entirely covered with scaffolding and sections of the interior
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