Blogs from Kraków, Lesser Poland, Poland, Europe - page 2

I was very impressed with the train I took to Krakow. I had opted for the faster, newer train and it was immaculate. Even though I was in second class, it was really nice, there was even a free drink for passengers, but I missed it as I didn't realise it was free. I travel too much on budget airlines, so I am totally conditioned to saying no to things as I think they will cost money. The train was also pretty empty and quiet, perfect. I arrived in Krakow in about two and a half hours. I headed to the place I was staying, which was only about a ten minute walk from the station and just dumped my stuff, unable to check in as it was too early. I was staying on the edge ... read more

Sitting in the bar at street level as I write this. My hotel is on the edge of the Main Market Square so no cars are allowed. The sun is beginning to lower and buildings becoming covered in shade. The day began early as I was joining a city tour on foot and needed to be at the meeting place quite early. Wasn’t sure what the day would bring as it was quite wet as I looked out my window at first light. Steady rain and the only human life in the quiet of the morning was a robed monk strolling along oblivious to the rain. His pace was meditative and I wondered what his day entailed. There were temporary event railings all along the promenade which turned out to be a business half marathon for ... read more

Back in Krakow, and time to wander streets in the reviving former Jewish quarter. Music here and there weaving through the streets, and an immense sense of bustling life and industry behind the crumbling, ruined facades. A harshly-lit bookshop presided over by a tall and melancholy bearded man, and a gloomy bookshop in what had been a temple...our footsteps creaked and echoed on the arthritic wooden floors, I remember. Lots of art and craft workshops bubbling up, busy with the usual tat and second-hand clothes, and the occasional astoundingly beautiful odd piece of metal, or bark, or paper. I wonder if anyone actually remembers what each of those objects was used for. The stated aim is to bring Kazimierz back to life again as it was in the early 1940s....... read more

It’s an early start this morning in order to reach Auschwitz before the 10 am compulsory, yet non-existent, tour guide cut off time. We make it with minutes to spare, although it means skipping breakfast. It feels inappropriate to complain about being hungry in a place like Auschwitz. I fail to gain entry at the first attempt as I have left my passport in the car. Then there is an issue with the spelling of my name on the ticket. Finally, on the third attempt (fourth if you count yesterday), I am admitted. The camp consists of around 30 blocks, most now form a museum detailing the history of Auschwitz. Some blocks deal with the history of the camp in general, while others recount the plight of specific nationalities of prisoners. The general blocks contain a ... read more

Monday morning would be a full day of sightseeing in and around Krakow, including Wawel Castle and the Old Town. Unlike other Polish cities, Krakow's buildings and monuments were not destroyed during World War II. The Germans want to make it the administrative center for occupied Poland and a showcase "German" city. (It had been under Austrian occupation from 1795 to 1918.) The coach dropped us off outside Planty Park. Planty is a greenbelt around the Old Town. It follows the trace of the medieval city walls. Walking though t to reach Wawel Castle reminded me very much of Łazienki Park in Warsaw. There were monuments and sculptures here, too. I like these peaceful green spaces. At the foot of the park, we came out onto Ulica Podzamcze, with the steps to the castle hill across ... read more