Kaunas, Lithuania: This is not the capital of Lithuania, nor a beautiful place or one with many attractions. I am here for sentimental reasons only. My grandfather was born here. My mother's father, who helped raise me and my brothers, and who was probably the best human being I ever knew. Fortunately, when he was 2 years old, his family moved to the U.S. I say fortunately, because during World War 2, when he was a young man, Kaunas, also known as Kovno, was occupied by the Nazis, who, together with the Lithuanians, proceeded to kill almost the entire Jewish population. Kovno was once a major Jewish center, with about 1/4 of this city's pre-war population being Jewish. Fewer than 1 in 10 survived the war. Today, we visited the Jewish ghetto, or what remains of
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