Shivering in Matera


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Europe » Italy » Apulia » Brindisi
November 7th 2006
Published: November 7th 2006
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Golfers???Golfers???Golfers???

Had to stop and make sure that we were really seeing this.
Our latest trip was to Matera in Basilicata. This is where the film "The Passion" was shot. It is about two and half hours southeast of Brindisi. We took the slow road once again and were richly rewarded. It was a pleasant morning drive. We arrived around noon at our B&B "Villa Paola." Very clean and hospitable; I highly recommend this place. The owners were very nice and helpful. The host turned out to be a skier and gave me some very useful information on ski areas that are closer to Brindisi than the ones further south in Calabria. There are two places that we want to go visit before the snow flies. One is close to the city of Potenza and the other is in the region of Abruzzo and is one of the biggest ski areas in central Italy. The one in Portenza will be our first choice to explore.
After checking into the B&B, we headed into Matera which was just uphill about 5 minutes away. We stopped at the tourist information office and bought a map and asked about a good restaurant for lunch. We ate at a ristorante "Il Borghese" that was superb. They had a
Just driving along...Just driving along...Just driving along...

When we see this water amusement park out in the middle of nowhere...
gnocchi dish that was terrific. Bonus: They played jazz for background music and we heard two very good renditions of Cole Porter's "Everybody does It." The waiter was very friendly and we chatted about the place. They were very proud that the interior is all lined with tuffa stone. This is the principal rock of the area. This is what the place is famous for. People for centuries had lived in caves or dug into the hillside to fashion houses. It is now a World Heritage Place and is protected. It is very interesting. The only downer was that the temperature was bitterly cold. We expected that it would be brisk but not bitter. It was a sunny and windy day with temps in the high 40's. Yet, it was quite cold. We walked around for about 4 hours and visited the "Sassi" neighborhood. The word "Sassi" literally means "the stones."
Evidently this area was a place where monks came and established places of refuge for themselves. Eventually people lived in the caves and did so until the 1950's when the Italian government moved them out. There are still places where people have modernized the caves and have established B&Bs,
Cool mountaintop villageCool mountaintop villageCool mountaintop village

Don't know the name of it, but I bet there is at least one very good place to eat there.
ristorantes, and businesses.
We went back that night and ate at a trattoria that was an old cave that had been expanded. The food was excellent and the rooms facinating to consider. I failed to take my camera with me and so I don't photos of it for you to see. They too played some excellent music. We had some very tasty lamb, grilled vegtables, and a very good bottle of regional wine.



Additional photos below
Photos: 14, Displayed: 14


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Abandoned farmhousesAbandoned farmhouses
Abandoned farmhouses

dot the countryside as people move to larger cities.
MasseriaMasseria
Masseria

These are now protected. In ancient times people built fortress-like farmhouses. Some are now rebuilt into ristorantes and tourist spots.
CountrysideCountryside
Countryside

resembles the Palouse in nothern Idaho. We were surprised by the size of the acreage under cultivation. You don't see much of that around Brindisi
The gorgeThe gorge
The gorge

Matera is built overlooking this gorge further up the hill.
Il BorgheseIl Borghese
Il Borghese

In Italy, in Matera, on a Saturday, having a leisurely lunch...before a little sightseeing...life is good!
EspressinoEspressino
Espressino

Remember...cappucino only in the morning! Espressino in the afternoon for a little pick me up.
I SassiI Sassi
I Sassi

A very ancient community. Just amazing.
Cave dwellingsCave dwellings
Cave dwellings

People used to live in caves or dig caves out of the tuffa rock and then fashion some house front. This is some of the closed areas.
BrrrrrrrBrrrrrrr
Brrrrrrr

It was cold in the shadows.
Can youCan you
Can you

spot the church? it was carved out inside the knob of rock that you see. Interior photos were forbidden.
Staying warmStaying warm
Staying warm

by climbing up and down in the village. It was like a labyrinth and was intersting to walk around in such an old place.


7th November 2006

Freezing in Italy
I think I recognize Beth's jacket in the photo, and have some pictures of her shivering in it in Nothern Italy. Of course, we were all wearing the same clothes in most of those pictures!
7th November 2006

Shivering in Matera
Famous last words as we packed for that trip..."jeez, do you think we need something a little warmer?" Remember the golden rule of cold weather: If you are warm, you can always take it off, but if you are cold you can't put it on if you don't have it with you.
13th November 2006

Matera is one of the main reasons I want to visit Basilicata, glad it seems to live up to its reputation! Other reasons include going to small mountaintop villages like the one you have a photo of...intriguing!
14th November 2006

Fabuloso!
Your last several outings have been, how do you say, magnifico!
14th November 2006

Shivering in Matera
More to follow! We are on an all out plan to get in as much travelling as possible between now and mid summer. I also have some local pictures that I have been meaning to post. I will be posting pictures of some of the local shops and shopkeepers that I have gotten to know. We are just bowled over by how everyone has been so friendly and kind.

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