Let’s try this again

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After a somewhat late night last night, my watch alarm rang a bit too early this morning. But it was for good reason because I’m heading to the Louvre.

The Louvre opens at 9:00 am and the lines are generally pretty long. Today would likely be even worse since it’s the first Sunday of the month - all the museums are free. But I had gotten some great advice from a few people. There is a little known second entrance along a recessed wall on the south side of the Louvre. While it is clearly marked on the posted maps outside the complex, few notice it, instead following the massive crowds. They pay a heavy price for this.

When I arrived a few minutes before 9:00, hundreds of people were lined in front of the main entrance at the Glass Pyramid, most waiting to race in to see the Mona Lisa. I found the second entrance and there were 12 people waiting to enter. I was lucky number 13.

Upon entering, I immediately picked up an English version of the site map and walked briskly towards the Mona Lisa, hoping to beat the masses. The Mona Lisa was located in the south building so I only had this single hallway to traverse. Once I arrived, there were only a few people in the room. Unlike most that see it, all of us had an unobstructed view of the renowned work of art.

Anyone who has seen the Mona Lisa can attest to its unimpressive size or grandeur. Many wonder why this particular da Vinci painting is held in such high regards, as in the hallway sit more impressive works, such as the Virgin of the Rocks (version 1) and St. Jean-Baptiste. Across from the Mona Lisa is a giant wall-sized painting. Yet all are attracted to the allure of man’s fascination with this painting over hundreds of years.

While da Vinci intrigues me, I held no special place in my heart for this particular work. I could never understand the fascination with it, either, but this was one of those few times where I had to check the box. Already aware of its small size I can’t say I was disappointed. Contrarily, it was actually better than expected as those who had seen it before conveyed that they were so disappointed that I expected next to nothing.

After a few minutes of viewing the Mona Lisa and the massive painting behind it, I turned around and noticed the crowd had grown immensely. Now people were struggling to even see it. Later on, the museum workers would likely herd people along like cattle.

From there, I continued to walk along the south corridor and stopped in a long, grand room with gold workings surrounding hundreds of paintings that were on the walls and ceiling. Inside there were a regal desk, many relics of French royalty and, at the end of the room, the Charlemagne crown. While the Charlemagne crown did not actually descend from Charlemagne, it is the crown which Napoleon allegedly took from the Pope and placed on his own head during his coronation.

Quickly observing thousands of pieces along the way, I headed to the section where Napoleon kept his apartment. The brilliant designs exceeded even most royal standards, as gold accented the rich reds, purples and blues that formed the basis of his design. The letter “N” was everywhere, symbolizing the greatness that he felt he exuded.

I then headed downstairs to see Hammurabi’s Code. I remember learning about this in grade school history but don’t recall if I ever saw what it really is; only knowing that it is the first known written order of law. It’s essentially a large set of tiny hieroglyphic-like etchings on a tall, black stone. The shear number of tiny inscriptions, which had to have been made with some obscure tools, was the impressive part.

Lastly, on my way out, I saw the inside of the Glass Pyramid and the Inverted Pyramid, made famous by The Da Vinci Code. No one was kneeling before it.

Next was a walk up to see and tour the Opera Garnier, the large Paris opera house depicted in The Phantom of the Opera. From the outside, the building is quite a presence; the centerpiece at the intersection of a number of large streets and avenues. Coming in through the visitors’ entrance around the side was not nearly as impressive as it would be coming in the front with the grand staircase welcoming you in the door.

At the top of the staircase was the entrance to the theatre, which I decided to save for last. I walked around the front of the opera house, touring its library, grand foyer and outdoor balcony, which overlooked the front plaza. I finally went into the theatre through one of the first floor boxes. While it was very dark I could make out the large chandelier above, the plush maroon seating and gold trim that lined the exterior of the boxes. A stage crew was preparing a fake home for use in an upcoming performance.

Thanks to the folks I met from the Netherlands when I was in Cardiff, I knew nearby the opera house was a department store called Les Printemps. On its ninth floor (10th story) was a free rooftop which overlooks most of the city. It certainly would beat going all the way down to the Eiffel Tower again and having to pay to get a daytime view.

When I got there it was closed. It’s Sunday.

From there I headed south towards the Musée de l'Orangerie, my next stop. Along the way, I passed by a small church with a large crowd in front of it. I walked up to it and heard why the crowd had gathered - a choir performance was being held inside. The voices resounded throughout the church’s front exterior, courtesy of a speaker by the door. People in the crowd sang along. Not that I know much of anything about French, but it didn’t sound French. It sounded Eastern European to me. I didn’t bother confirming.

I made it down to the Musée de l'Orangerie shortly thereafter. The museum was built to grow oranges for Napoleon but now holds a large French impressionist exhibit, including Monet’s Water Lilies painting. I can’t say I’m into that sort of thing but since the museum was free that day, why not?

When I waited in the short line to enter, I overheard a father and son in front of me talking in American English. They were wondering about water fountains in the area. I had seen the guide use one yesterday so I interjected with my perils of wisdom.

We went into the “where are you from” bit and I said Philadelphia. Who in Paris would have heard of Reading or Berks County? The guy in front of me, that’s who. He grew up in Pottsville and went to Kutztown University. He moved to Michigan after college and recently retired to Alsace, France with his wife. I lost them when I entered and didn’t see them again.

Inside, there were works by many of the famous French artists - Monet, Renoir and a handful of others whose names I can’t recall offhand. Like I said, this isn’t really my thing but some of the paintings were nice. I mostly wanted to see if I could find the original Monet painting whose replica Brian had hung on our living room wall in New York for the last four years.

After that was the Musée d'Orsay - right down the street. Very similar to the Musée de l'Orangerie, I had similar motivations and ambitions. This one was much larger with many more artists represented, including Victor Hugo. The painting of Whistler’s mother was also there.

The highlight was the balcony which overlooked northern Paris. I love balconies and rooftops.

Famished, it was high time I got something to eat. Knowing that tonight would be laid back, I opted to go local for lunch. I found a brasserie nearby and tried this ordering in French thing all over again. Maybe since the night before went so poorly I ended up feeling this one went much better.

I ordered a prix fixe three course meal consisting of foie gras, duck confit and chocolate fudge cake. I had foie gras in New York when I first moved up but didn’t remember much about it so I gave it another go. It’s enjoyable but for the price it is extremely overrated.

The duck, which I’ve also had before, came out on the bone and was lined with fat around the exceptionally dark meat. It rested over a bed of lettuce and was accompanied by a side of potatoes which tasted like they were coated in butter. The duck was good. The potatoes were phenomenal.

After the copious amounts of fat I just consumed, the cake was unnecessary. I ate it anyway.

Having learned from the night before, I went with a small order of red wine (it was indeed a carafe). The last thing I needed was to show up for my final stop of the day half in the bag.

I had time to kill and was a bit exhausted after my feast so I swung by the Jardin du Luxumborg to sit on a bench in peace. I found a chair and listened to a jazz band play popular American jazz songs for the next half hour. While it wasn’t exactly peaceful, it was fun.

Finally it was time to head to Sunday evening mass at Notre Dame Cathedral. Not being Catholic, I wasn’t really sure what to expect. I grabbed a seat towards the back and tried to look like I belonged. I was excited to hear the pipe organ.

The service was conducted by a cardinal and was very simple - he would say something in French for a minute and the organ would play for the next five. This went on for about an hour.

While I couldn’t understand a word that was said, the pipe organ was well worth it. The thunderous roar of the pipes coated the skin in goose bumps. I think I’ll have regal organ music at my wedding someday. It will make it more of a coronation than a wedding. That would be fun.

Tomorrow I tour Paris in the morning and head to Bayeux, Normandy for my tour on Tuesday.

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Photos

Lines to get in the Louvre
The side entrance is miraculous. There were hundreds in the main line (main picture) and 12 in the side line (lower right).

Mona Lisa crowds
The main picture is when I arrived to see the Mona Lisa. The lower picture was taken a few minutes later when the masses arrived.

Charlamagne Crown
As one story goes, when the Pope was corronating Napoleon as Emperor, Napoleon rose before the ceremony was over and crowned himself, as even the Pope wasn't good enough to crown Napoleon.

Moi
By far the best exhibit in the Louvre.

Opera Garnier
Paris's main opera house is where the Phantom of the Opera story takes place.

Really?
Why was I not considered an art genius in grade school? This is what my paintings looked like.

Duck confit
My main course at lunch.