rkt

We decided to leave Ilha Grande as soon as the weather took a down turn. This way we would have more time in Rio. Accommodation is so expensive in Rio in comparison to the rest of South America. I really wanted to rent an apartment - you can get some beautiful apartments in good locations for a fraction of the price of staying in a hostel or hotel. We arrived too late in Rio to move in, and Sanj concluded that 3 nights wasn’t worth the hassle of deposits etc. I begged to differ. We stayed in Copacabana, the famous area in Rio for parties and people. We were two blocks away from the 4km stretch of beach. Our first day wasn’t very productive, - when the weather is gloomy, you don’t feel like doing anything ... read more

The journey to the Pantanal, the world’s largest wetland area, teeming with wildlife, was not a smooth one to say the least. I am quite used to the long journeys (here she goes boasting again!), but it’s true! One 15 hour bus journey (non-cama, standard) with a change over, a 5 hour bus journey, and then another 45 minute jeep ride into the Pantanal later, Sanj wouldn’t look at me. Why had he left me the task of arranging everything? Why hadn’t he insisted on booking flights? It was written all over his luxury-loving face but he didn’t want to appear a whinge-bag. ‘Give me a smile,’ I would ask him on the jeep ride. He could only muster a teeth-showing purse of the lips. Bless, we’ll get there soon. And sure enough we did…to good ... read more

I am not a city gal, and so did not like the prospect of staying in Buenos Aires for too long, although by the end of it, I didn’t want to leave, especially as the Lindas were going to a very exciting party that weekend. I decided to see whales. So there I went again, hopping onto a eighteen hour bus from Buenos Aires to Puerto Madryn. Three Hollywood blockbusters, one bingo game, one hot dinner and a breakfast later, I arrived to Puerto Madryn, a quiet little town off the shore of the Atlantic Ocean. The town struck me as being very British with its neat streets and gardens. No surprise, as this is the place that the Welsh immigrants settled to escape persecution from the English all those years ago. I saw many red-haired ... read more

From Uyuni I took a six hour chicken bus to Potosi, the highest city in the world - great, another cold destination. I wanted to visit the infamous silver mines that the Spanish had ruthlessly exploited 500 years ago enabling Potosi to become one of the richest cities on the planet at the time. A far cry from today - Potosi, heavily reliant on the dwindling mineral mining industry, and one of the poorest cities in South America. Contrary to many warnings from fellow travellers, ‘be careful in Potosi, I’ve heard it’s really dangerous…’ I was pleasantly surprised. It’s a sleepy city dominated by colonial architecture. The main square is pretty and peaceful…I spent many hours there in the sun, writing my journal. You really get the vibes of a place once powerful, a place where ... read more

Cusco - Puno - Lake Titicaca - La Paz So we got the First Class (the name of the bus) to Puno from Cusco - 8 hours, 3 stops. Definitely recommend it, as it breaks the long journey. Stopped at Andahuaylillas, yet another church, dubbed the ‘Sistine Chapel’ of South America, but nah, don’t think so, just another tourist puller. The second stop in Raqchi was better - amazing Andean scenery (haven{t got sick of the mountains), old Inca temples, vast farming space, simple and unobtrusive local housing, wild vicunias and llamas running around. We then stopped at this random dusty town, walking through typical markets selling all kinds from dead snakes (for medicinal purposes), to cocaine leaves to kitchen sinks. Was nice to see traditionally dressed women - big puffy skirts, bowler hats, two ... read more