We had only heard bad reports about La Paz, however, we thought it was a great place to spend a few days. In particular, the main boulevards were reminiscent of any European drag but with more huge (& very busy) icecream parlours, including one called "Dumbo's" complete with large effigy. We ate our first breakfast in La Paz at the refined Cafe Luna, it is one of the very few places to give you real butter with your bread which makes it worth the extra bolivanos. Having booked our pampas tour, we then visited the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo in a fabulous building designed by Gustave Eiffel. There was an exhibition of Eusebio Choque's; heaps of paintings of outlined figures in varying chullos (woolly hats with earpieces) & ponchos, & lots of other artists work for
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