As I've mentioned in previous entries, I've stayed in pretty much every type of accomodation there is to be found during my African travels. I've lived in converted stables, family homes, mud huts, luxery lodges & hotels, plus most things in between. During that time, I've met a great many of my fellow travellers, and it really is amazing what a melting pot Africa is these days. Almost uniformly however, the most interesting people to be found are staying in amongst the cheapest accomodations. In the luxery lodges and the big hotels, all I seem to encounter are rich Americans on one or two week safaris. I am sure there are a few other nationalities spotted about there too, but to be honest the Americans are (almost) always so loud, that it sounds as if they're ... read more

I arrived in Maun on February 26th with the intention of staying four or five nights. Eight days later I finally dragged myself away with great reluctance to continue my journey south. If it were not for the fact that I have to be in Gaborone by Friday I'd certainly have stayed longer. In Maun I found a true home from home in the shape of the Old Bridge Backpackers. In four years of travels through nine African countries I have stayed in expensive hotels, flea pit hotels, tents, mud huts, tin shacks, the floor of a landrover and a miscellany of hostels, but nowhere has been more welcoming and more consistently helpful and friendly as Helena and Dave, and all of the other staff at the Old Bridge. There were a couple of days when ... read more

Early on Wednesday morning a small group set out from the wonderful Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun, Botswana. We were bound for the Okavango Delta, the world's largest inland delta. The Okavango River empties not into the sea, but instead into the Kalahari desert and is home to an amazing collection of wildlife including over 400 species of birds. We took a high-speed motor lauch to the edge of the protected area and there transferred to Mokoros. These traditional fishing boats can seat two people in relative comfort, while the boatman poles them through the reeds, much like an Oxford punt. In the past the boats have always been made from local woods, but recent conservation initiatives have resulted in a gradual switch to fibreglass. The tourist programme is run by local villagers, with all moneies ... read more

This morning I walked over the border from Zimbabwe to Botswana, and then caught a local bus into Kasane. Over the river I can see Namibia, but it will be weeks yet before I set foot there. I flew into Johannesburg last Tuesday, and stayed overnight at my favourite local hostel; Shoestrings. It's located close to the airport, in an area safe enough to walk about in, and the owners offer free pickups to and from the airport. There are a remarkable number of private rooms and dorm beds, plus a rather nice little pool in the back garden. The owner of Shoestrings is English, and originally settled in Zimbabwe, opening a lodge come hostel there that he called also Shoestrings - it's still there now, albeit under new management, and it was to there that ... read more

Kisumu rests on the shore of Lake Victoria, the largest fresh-water lake in Africa. Once called Port Florence, after the wife of the chief engineer that completed the railway from the coast, it is now a bustling, friendly town. Men or women, locals or foreigners, can walk in perfect safety, day or night here. The only hazard is the potholes, mostly in the pavements, where surface slabs have collapsed into the subterranean drainage systems. I saw one partcularly huge gash today that plunged over ten feet down and was more than twice that in length! I'm not sure I'd want to work in the stall that is balanced on the surviving section above. The streets are mostly lit, but on those lacking illumination I found I could only proceed when the headlamps from passing cars were ... read more

My last day in the Mara started with an early morning game drive, supposedly to catch the predators still out hunting. The Maasai guards and cooks at the camp helped push start the landrover, since no garage had been open when we got back last night, and we were off. Still no leopards or cheetah, but we did see a group of Spotted Hyena! The Mara population contains animals much larger than anywhere else in the world and a research team is in the reserve to try and establish why. They certainly looked impressive. There were not many other vehicles about, but one alas was a big overlander type. Huge they are and very high off the ground. I'd hate being stuck in one. Even more unfortunately, they chose to come to the hippo look out ... read more

I had a fantastic time in the Mara with a small safari company that shall remain nameless. The journey home however took rather longer than planned... The second day started late due to a change of vehicle, but I'd been well fortified by breakfast in a neighbouring camp. Unfortunately, until the new vehicle arrived we were lacking somewhat in supplies, but it did give me the chance to meet some new people and hear their experiences. Once the landrover arrived we set out, with me spending most of the time stood up in the back enjoying the feel of the wind in my face and the stunning landscape laid out before me. I've been told by numerous people that the Mara is the best reserve in Africa. Well, I agree that it's a good one, but ... read more

Two years ago I didn't believe that the traffic in Nairobi could get worse, but how wrong could I be. We crawled along from the airport past broken down lorries and wrecked cars, through muddy streets flanked by muddier verges that only rarely sported actual curbs. Overhead the sky was gray and murky, and somewhere in between, Nairobi's giant 'pigeons' with their huge 5-6ft wingspans lurked while feeding on the ample rubbish discarded all around. Despite the excruciating pace however, it truly is great to be back. Nairobi is a bold, 'in your face' type of city. Not for everyone perhaps, but I would love to experience living here long-term. I'd noticed new carpet down in the airport, but it hasn't changed much. Service is fast though and I was through immigration, baggage claim and customs ... read more