Adventures in the Maasai Mara (pt 1)

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I had a fantastic time in the Mara with a small safari company that shall remain nameless. The journey home however took rather longer than planned...

The second day started late due to a change of vehicle, but I'd been well fortified by breakfast in a neighbouring camp. Unfortunately, until the new vehicle arrived we were lacking somewhat in supplies, but it did give me the chance to meet some new people and hear their experiences.

Once the landrover arrived we set out, with me spending most of the time stood up in the back enjoying the feel of the wind in my face and the stunning landscape laid out before me.

I've been told by numerous people that the Mara is the best reserve in Africa. Well, I agree that it's a good one, but there are many others equally good out there, such as the stunning Aberdares, the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Etosha (Namibia), or it's own southern half; Tanzania's Serengeti National Park. It also certainly can't compete to South Luangwa in Zambia for sheer numbers of game. I do like it though and will definitely return one day.

The wildlife is numerous, with huge herds of Zebra, Topi and endless gazelles spotting the plains, while buffalo, hippos and the occasional croc share the rivers with a spectatcular array of birdlife.

We ate lunch in sight of the extremely expensive (and in my opinion equally ugly) Serena Lodge. It was a simple affair, but tasty nonetheless, and afterwards set off after the migration. Despite the delay due to the late rains we couldn't quite catch the migration itself, but we saw it's path and the numerous skeletons left there. There seemed to be a dead herbivore every couple of hundred metres!

Eventually we turned back, but the day was far from over just yet. My wonderful guide, spotted a grioup of elephants far out on a wide plain and we set out after them. Stopping close by, I settled down to watch and photograph them. I tend to watch for a while and then try to take pictures from a variety of angles. My preference is to look up at animals, but that isn't always possible in a safari vehicle. After a while the driver switched off the engine. I must admit to being pleasantly surpised as it had been on all day up to that point. The abrupt silence was really beautiful.

A few minutes later we were all regretting that decision when the damned thing failed to start up again! Stalled in the middle of the Mara... next to a herd of elephants. After a few minutes of trying, the driver and guide got out very cautiously and tried to push-start us. There was no way that I was going to leave all the work (and I'll admit; the fun) to them, so I jumped out too. Before getting involved in the pushing I got my ground level photographs of the elephants, and then put my shoulder to the task.

There were four of us, the guide, driver, a trainee guide and me. It was an eight seater, long wheelbase landrover. We did manage to move it, on several occasions, but the engine just wouldn't catch, and unlike in the movies, none of the elepants offered to help push, they did stay clear though which we appreciated. Eventually we gave up and stood on top of the vehicle waving for help. The only other vehicles were a very long way off however and the afternoon was passing fast, with us still deep within the Mara.

In the end we were there an hour before another land rover finally noticed us and came over. With their mass behind us we soon got the thing going again. We followed them back for most of the way, just in case, and close to the gate made a remarkable find...

There, just off the track, were a small group of lions, and most of a zebra. We stopped once more, and after a brief conversation between drivers, shut off engines again. Soon the sight of two parked safari vehicles attracted a couple more and we all settled in to watch the show.

A lion and lioness were currently feeding, while a second male lounged near by. This latter male was the most photogenic as he persisted in rolling onto his back every few minutes and waving his legs in the air. The zebra was a gorey sight, but no one blanched at all and we stayed for some time. After a few minutes a third lion strolled up and without hesitation joined in the feast. He must have been recognised, since the others didn't complain, but soon after the lioness apparently had her fill and wandered off to rest.

Before her wonderfully beautiful highness settled down though, she spotted a pair of warthogs wandering towards the kill site. Standing once more she strolled towards them. She didn't try to stalk them, she simply strolled nonchelently towards them, occasionally glancing around as if to say, "this is how you should do it, idiots". It just looked as if she was curious to see how close she could get before they spotted her. The answer was, pretty close, if she'd wanted another meal, they wouldn't have escaped. As it was, she stopped the instant they did, then watched as they first froze, then, as one, turned and bolted. A few seconds later she too turned, strolled back toards her mates and settled down to sleep.

Shortly after we got one of the other vehicles to push-start us and headed for home.

The following day saw us nearly kicked out of the park by KWS rangers, a long wait for an aeroplane, and me personally financing the repair of our vehicle at a local garage. But for all that, and more, you'll have to wait for part 2.

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Comments

[Claire]

Wow!!
How amazong - not the broken down bit obviously! But Lions & Elephants!!! I am so jealous!! Have a great time!! Looking forward to the next epistle! C