Out on the water in deepest Botswana.

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Early on Wednesday morning a small group set out from the wonderful Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun, Botswana. We were bound for the Okavango Delta, the world's largest inland delta.

The Okavango River empties not into the sea, but instead into the Kalahari desert and is home to an amazing collection of wildlife including over 400 species of birds.

We took a high-speed motor lauch to the edge of the protected area and there transferred to Mokoros. These traditional fishing boats can seat two people in relative comfort, while the boatman poles them through the reeds, much like an Oxford punt. In the past the boats have always been made from local woods, but recent conservation initiatives have resulted in a gradual switch to fibreglass. The tourist programme is run by local villagers, with all moneies raised going straight to them.

Within a few moments of leaving the mooring, we had vanished into the vast delta. Now our view shrunk to the narrow passageways before us, with thick stands of the tall reeds pressing against the boat on every side. It is a wonderful and unique landscape.

Below the boat was almost crystal clear water, pure enough to drink, and deep enough, if you could find a lagoon free of reeds, to swim in. Tiny white frogs clung to the vegetation, while stunning dragonflies flitted below the low lying canopy.

We were poled through this unique landscape for several blissful hours, with the only sounds being the buzz of insects and the occasional burst of melodious Setswana as our guide greeted the very occasional fisherman he spotted.

Eventually we came ashore on a low lying island and had our pack lunches under the welcome shade of a well watered tree. From there we trekked inland, looking for big game. It was initially disappointing, although the lush landsacpe made up for it, but as we slowly looped around for our return to the boats, a vast grey shape appeared on the ridgeline to our right. It was an elephant!

Watching from behind the dubious safety of a vast termite mound, we counted five of the great beasts as they peacefully browsed a scant one hundred metres away. They are truely majestic animals, especially when seen like this, deep in the wilderness on their own ground. It was some time before we could bring ourselves to move on.

As things happened, we saw no other animals until after we were back on the water, but the elephants were certainly worth the walk, quite aside from the amazing landsacpe itself.

By this point though, we were all extremely hot and tired, despite our elation, and glad to be setting off back to camp. The sky had cleared and the sun felt much like an open blast furnace. The jouney back was equally beautiful however, although a high point was undoubtedly the chilled beers awaiting us in the motorboat.

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