Ok, so when the Lonely Planet call's a place "beautiful", one generally tends to assume that one won't be stepping off the bus into mayhem and dirt. Ah, but then one would be assuming wrong. After a five hour, bone jarring, terrifying, wish-I-could-teleport-myself bus ride to Kottayam, twelve hours on a train (the only humane way to travel) to Managalore, overnight, where we had to beg our way into the AC compartment for a bed, and then another five hour body-rattling and bruising bus ride up to Madikkeri, we stepped off the bus glad to be on solid ground, and
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