The downward trend is very much over. Today is the greatest climb of the circuit, nearly 1700m. Christina, Jamie & Kim lefy for Pokhara this morning so our group is gradually reducing in size. Yet another wet and overcast day unfortunately. Darren befriended a dog in Tatopani which insisted on following us this morning. It seemed keen on coming to Ghorepani with us so Darren accosted a local returning to Tatopani who agreed to carry 'Rupee' back into town. Today was another long and tough daybut on arrival in Ghorepani we treated ourselves to Yak cheese & crackers accompanied with hot chocolate and rum, a surprisingly good combination. The dining room heater was fired up with plenty of dry wood so by the time Dal Baht arrived we were well on the road to recovery. Arriving ... read more

After a few apple ciders last night and a mustang coffee (loadsa whiskey and a dash of coffee!), I wasn't too lively this morning. Some of our group are moving on to Kalopani or Tatopani today and others are taking a rest day in Marpha. Due to a dusty road being constructed between Jomsom and Ghasa the route from here can be a little unpleasant due to passing jeeps, dust and high winds. Darren wants a rest day and will take a jeep with Jamie, Kim, Marcus and Christine tommorow to Tatopani. Having succesfully negotiated Thorong La I am reluctant to use and transportation around the circuit so will go with Hari to Kalopani 19km today and then Tatopani tommorowand meet darren there. A couple of the girls, Jane and Min are doing the same but ... read more

After a mega sleep and a hearty breakfast we took a gentle stroll up to the temple at Muktinath. Muktinath is a sacred town fo both hindu's and Buddhistsand both share the temple grounds with the Hindu temple alongside the buddhist Gompa's. Hari washed his face from all 108 cows head which spout water. Hari say's this promotes health and long life. We also went inside the Buddhist Gompa where a natural gas flam glows from the earth. Shortly after 12 we started the short and very downhill trek to Kagbeni. After yesterday's 1600m descent the thighs are hurting and this is another 1000m drop. After negotiating another 'Hari shortcut' which left me caked in mud we stopped at the Romeo & Juliet Lodge in Khingar for a swift noodle soup. The trek today wa hugely ... read more

I had a much better nights sleep and my heartrate is a lot more comfortable now. Hari wanted to give me a little 'test' before we set off for Thorong Phedi which is the final frontier before the pass. We climbed up probably 100m above Yak Kharka on a very steep trail. I went very slowly and was able to reach a decent height without any serious discomfort. Thorong Phedi is around a 450m climb and I was sure I could do that, the question was what sort of condition I would arrive in ready for the pass the next morning. We set off with our trekking buddy Peter who had arrived last night from a tough excursion to Tilichio Lake. I inched my way up the slope at the end of the yak grazing area ... read more

Darren woke up this morning full of cold and generally feeling pretty rotten. After breakfast he perked up a little and we decided to move onwards even if only to the next village of Gunsangat 3900m. We made Gunsang fairly comfortably although I am now moving very slowly indeed. Moving at any speed is leaving me gasping for breath which is a tad worrying seeing as we are still 1500m below Thorong La Pass. we took a long break at Gunsang, enjoying the views from the Marsyangdi Hotel across to the Annapurna massif. The sun was still shining although the clouds around the peaks were beginning to darken. By the time we reached Yak Kharka the wind was up and the sky completely overcast and within 30 minutes of arrival snow was steadily falling. We arrived ... read more