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Yak Kharka
Early morning clear skies in Yak KharkaI had a shocking nights sleep due to some pretty regular and uncomfortable palpitations. I think maybe I got 2-3 hours sleep only. I'm not sure if it's being caused by a weeks heavy exertion or the altitude and resulting lack of oxygen - probably a combination of the two. Either way it's not good news as I'm breathless and slightly feint after simply climbing a flight of stairs. We are still 1500m below Thorong La, how the heck am I going to get up and over the pass? If things don't improve I will need to make alternative arrangements however inconvenient that is. If you get into trouble at 5400m (nearly 18000ft) and need medical attention it isn't going to arrive in a hurry. We sat down today and made some provisional plans which would mean Hari and myself backtracking all the way back to the start of the circuit and joining up with Darren probably in Jomsom in 8-9 days time, nightmare!
Yesterday we popped into a local hut and had some tea with some Yak Kharka 'residents'. Darren asked what they do for a living. As well as offering drinks & meals for tourists in trekking season
Yak Kharka
There are only 4 lodges in Yak Kharka they locate and sell a plant known as 'caterpillar fungi'. Apparently it is used in medicines and fetches a high price of around 350NR (GBP3.50) for a single caterpillar. The other thing they mentioned is a rescue service for trekkers stricken with altitude sickness - they can carry trekkers to/from the pass by horseback. Whilst I am not displaying any symptoms of altitude sickness I can't ascend at any meaningful speed at the moment so this could be another solution Darren is not doing any better either he still has a thick cold which shows no sign of shifting. What a couple of sicknotes!
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richard
non-member comment
Annapurna
Hi Rich, Seeing all these photos really brought it back for me and my time on the circuit 5 years ago. It obviously hasnt changed a bit and it seems you have been blessed with the weather as well. The whole shortness of breath thing and sleeping difficulties was the same fro us when we did the trek, Its uncomfortable not being able to breathe as you would at 2,500m...and it does make you feel slightly panicky. I really hope you make the pass ! Richard x