Blogs from Annapurna Circuit, Annapurna, Nepal, Asia

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Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit June 6th 2014

Non gogoa, han zangoa - Basque proverb There are situations of change in life. I don’t know how else to speak my mind. Just imagine: you are in a bar on a Friday night. It’s crowded as hell and the volume of the music is so high that you have to yell to people that are just a foot away from you. Everyone around is talking loudly and you’re laughing your ass off at some stupid joke that your mate hadjust told and… …and the power goes off. Everyone shuts up and looks around like there’s something wrong. Silence. You know that feeling? I had never trekked before in my life. So when the idea of climbing up to the Annapurna Base Camp was presented to me, it was too tempting to say no ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 4th 2014

The daily dilema of whether to get up and set off, hoping to find breakfast in the next village, or eat before leaving, usually whilst sat in several layers of clothes, teeth chattering over a cup of tea - such are the challenges faced when trekking! Initially I'd opted for the 'food now' option over the great unknown but at higher altitudes with the mornings cooler it was becoming less appealing. So on Day 5 I followed the Germans lead, whom I'd had serious breakfast envy of the previous day when I passed them sat in the sunshine tucking into porridge, and headed straight off. It meant I saw the first sun hitting the snowy peaks above and then, because the breakfast detour put me on a smaller path, went through Thanchok. Winding narrow stone lanes ... read more
Day 10 - walking in a snow globe
Day 12 - disappearing in the clouds
Day 5

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 27th 2014

The previous day I had broke through a physical wall. I was in the zone. It was all about achievement. There were unseen forces driving me up the rest of those hills; as the waterfalls whispered to me. I had only my mind and body to conquer. There were a few months of relative inactivity and partying that was putting a weight on me but I trudged through. Our next destination was Deurali. Do - Rally . That's the actual pronunciation. This was the only day all of us had enjoyed lunch (or brunch) simply and together as a group. We went through villages with names like Bamboo and Himalaya. It was starting to get fuckin' magical. Intuitively I was finding that I was shedding a bit of weight in the physical world but the release ... read more
Cup 'o Tea?

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 26th 2014

The physical exertion would call for a soul splitting, and I had no idea. At the end of that first day with Dave O' we made it to Ghandruk. We had hiked 8 kilometers and had mountain moonshine at lunchtime. In the evening we broke bread - dhal bat (a rice and curry dish) with an Italian and his Nepalese guides. I always get a kick out of telling the locals that I was born there! The next day Dave and I powered. First words written in the 2nd day circuit journal are "I'm exhausted". This day was the longest consecutive push we did. We started out early and went up a densely jungle humid ridge. There were schoolkids on their way to class, laughing and greeting us with, "Namaste". They would hold their hands together ... read more
Silver River
The fairy tale valley

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit July 7th 2013

I gave myself a rest day in Manang (3519m/11,545ft), “sleeping in” till 8 am. After a chili cheese burrito breakfast, I wasn’t sure what to do next and realized that there isn’t much to do in these Nepali towns except continue exactly what one’s been doing the whole time: hike some more. I headed up to a stupa just outside of town where, in a cave dwelling next to the stupa, resides a Buddhist nun who was the daughter of a monk that also resided there for 70 years. She now lived there alone after her father died, from what I understood, about 30 years ago; she steadfastly carries on his practice of bequeathing blessings to trekkers who visit the stupa. Once I’d reached the stupa, I was startled by the nun, whom I hadn’t noticed. ... read more
drinking water for the week
manang
annapurna massif from manang

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Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit July 3rd 2013

As I headed out of Tal on my way to Chame (not to be confused with Chamje) at 2650m/8690ft, I asked the proprietor of the guesthouse how far I had. “9-and-half hours,” he replied. “Ok, another long day. How about ‘Nepali time?’” “Nepali time?” He smiled, then replied, “8 hours.” Following the EBC trek, I’ve come to trust the precision of the Nepali people’s time estimates in the mountains like I trust that the sun will rise tomorrow: they are spot on and I’m usually within 15 minutes of what they quote me. On good days, I’m within 15 minutes of “Nepali time”, ie, the time one would expect a regular Nepalese to arrive at a destination. Either way, I had another 8 to 10-hour walk ahead of me, so I hastened out on the trail ... read more
outside of chame
outside of chame
outside of chame

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit July 1st 2013

Right at the outset, I’d like to say that I ripped off a line from The Who for the title of this blog not because I was without my wife for the Annapurna Circuit. The fact is I thought about her the entire way and wished she’d been able to see what I was seeing; I was also immensely grateful to her for allowing me to indulge myself while she waited around for me for about 10 days in Pokhara because she was having some knee issues after our trek to EBC. But the fact is that I was all by my lonesome, free to move as I wished - just me, the mountains, the yaks and the donkeys. Only that as I left Besisahar, where the bus from Pokhara dropped me off, I soon realized ... read more
and some more construction
more bulldozing
blast notice

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit May 29th 2013

The last part of our trek was generally pretty awesome. We spent a couple of rest days in Manang at about 3,500m from there it was 3 days up and over the Thorung La pass at 5,400m or just short of 18,000 feet. The scenery was stunning, environment steadily got drier the further we went, near the top was effectively a rocky desert but with glaciers all around. It was pretty Baltic at nights, getting down to around zero, but the sun was very strong during the day. I got sunburnt through the top of my hair/head, and no, I'm not going bald there!!! We expected to feel pretty awful with altitude but remarkably it wasn't too bad, think we were well acclimatised with 9 nights over 3,500m by the time we went over the top. ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit May 27th 2013

Hi all Few more photos of the last week of trekking, blog chat to follow. D&K... read more
Annapurna II. About 7,900m.
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A stupa above Manang with Annapurna range in background

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit May 26th 2013

Catch up on some trekking photos... read more
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The trek ahead of us from tal
The valley around tal




Tot: 0.244s; Tpl: 0.009s; cc: 6; qc: 78; dbt: 0.0682s; 78; m:apollo w:www (50.28.60.10); sld: 3; ; mem: 6.5mb