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Today wasn't a rest day at all. When climbing to high altitude the popular mantra is 'climb high, sleep low'. So, the concept today was a short daytripto a higher altitude, say 3-500m and then return to Manang for the night. Darren had a heavy cold this morning so skipped the morning excursion to Gangapurna Lake. Gangapurna soars over Manang along with it's glacial lake. I climbed the steep trail around 300m along with Peter and Jane (who we met yesterday)and got some great views across to Manang and the peaks of Pisang and to the north Thorong La where we will be heading soon. It was hard but manageable, we returned to Manang for some lunch.
Over lunch a rather rowdy crowd came in and introduced themselves. They were a very friendly group of Brits who are here in Manang on a camping expedition to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first ascent of Annapurna II by Chris Bonnington on 17 May 1960. Bonnington is travelling with the expedition but wasn't with the group at the time. We did however meet the son and grandson of Dick Grant who summited with Bonnington that day.
The second excursion of
Enroute to the Lama
High above Manang.. the day proved to be a little more problematical. Praken monastry is a cave some 4-500m above Manang where a Lama lives and gives blessings to trekkers for the safe crossing of Thorong La Pass. I thought it would be another good acclimatisation exercise but I seriously under estimated the nature of the climb. There were some thin ridges with steep drops which I fast became uncomfortable with. Then the wind got up and then the altitude hit me and I couldn't breath. I had to stop every couple of minutes and took nearly 40 minutes more than Darren and Peter to reach the top. Hari stayed with me and did his best to keep me calm as I was pretty much hyper ventilating trying to get air into my lungs. My heart rate was also way to quick. I do suffer from a mitral valve prolapse which is a relatively minor heart problem and rarely gives me problems under normal circumstances. The lack of oxygen however, my fear of heights and my attempt to go too quickly all combined and resulted in a pretty frightening experience.
Once at the top despite quite a bit of cloud cover moving
in the view was awe inspiring. Gangapurna, still soaring way overhead and Manang way way below, Annapurna III and IIII flanking Gangapurna, wonderful. Once I composed myself I went into see the Lama. He is 94 years old and has lived in the cave of 41 years. He gave me a blessing for safe passage and kissed a bead before placing it over my head. He then struck me over the head with a very old book and gestured to a tray in front of him with lots of 100NR notes in. I placed a 100NR donation in the tray, after the experience I'd just had getting up there it was a small cost and I may need all the help I can get in order to get over Thorong La!
Befor the descent Darren spotted a huge bird travelling at incredible speed below us. Hari identified it as an Eagle. My failing eyes managed to pick it up as it turned and swooped magnificently and at remarkable speed in front of Gangapurna. What a sight.
Providing Darren's cold doesn't worsen overnight we will move onwards tommorow another 500m higher to Yak Kharka
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elJardineros
elJardineros
I visited that lama in 1999 - it's amazing to see him up there still doing his thing. I've been wanting to return to Nepal and Annapurna again...if you have the time and inclination will you message me about the road that has been built up to Muktinath. Are people still trekking down the Kali Gandaki side? Thanks for the blog, brings back good memories!