May 3rd : Ghasa to Tukuche - Awake long before daybreak, dogs bark noisily for hours in the night. And now a rooster, endlessly cock-a-doodle-doing, well before dawn. This room has mice, bugs, spiders & noise. The least charming to date. We’re on the road my 7:15 - I can't get out of there fast enough; It's filthy; Legs are stiff & sore, of course, but I’m still feeling strong & healthy, and glad to be moving again. Early in the morning the army runs up the hill, local women & children come down the hill with tumplines - large straw baskets resting between their shoulders, the tumpline is the strap across the top of their head, close to but not exactly resting upon their forehead. They pick up mounds of dung, put them into their
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