I had been having a difficult time in Tanzania. To the point that I considered cancelling the safari that I had booked onto. It was only because Donna, who runs Maasai Wanderings (the company I had chosen because they support local communities), had been so helpful that I even got as far as Arusha. After 18 hours on a bus that went from Musoma via Nairobi (a border crossing at 4am is never fun) and only 2 hours sleep, the aggressive, persistent, ubiquitous touts of Arusha were unbearable. I had thought, indeed expected, to see plenty of wildlife on a safari, [View Full Entry]

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It may not be everyone's idea of fun, but my birthday this year was perfect ... for me! We had asked at the taxi park the previous day about the frequency of minibuses to get to Budong Central Forest Reserve as we wanted to walk 'The Royal Mile' (which is supposed to be excellent bird watching). Why did we believe people who were keen not to disappoint? In the end, having explored different options, and after some hard bargaining by me (I haggled to reduce the price by 1000 shillings each - a total saving of a US dollar), we hired [View Full Entry]

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En route from Burundi, we stopped for one night in Kigali. The following morning was when I went to the Memorial Centre and then had lunch alone, feeling like chopped liver (New York slang). We then arranged a lift back to Kabale, in Uganda, with Milton, who delivers Ugandan newspapers to Kigali daily. For an additional fee, he took us straight to the Overland Camp at Lake Bunyoni. A gorgeous place! The safari tent rooms are erected on wooden platforms with stunning views over the lake. We walked to the local school and 'commune' where travellers volunteer through the House of [View Full Entry]

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When I first planned to travel in East Africa on my way home from Ethiopia, I thought I might go to Burundi. Then, various people and the security warnings in my (admittedly old) guide book put me off. However, Barry was heading there and as we were both enjoying the company, I decided to go too. Like Rwanda, Burundi is very green, but imediately seemed less cultivated. Burundi was a real surprise. Arriving in Bujumbura (the capital) after an easy border crossing, I felt slightly edgy - after all I'd heard so much about the dangers. In reality, the greatest danger [View Full Entry]

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"This chapter is a bitter part of our lives, but one we must remember for those we lost and for the sake of the future." Quote from the Kigali Memorial Centre Sadly, the main thing that most people associate with Rwanda is the 1994 genocide. Rwanda is a beautiful country with a sense of healing and worth a visit. Much of the countryside is cultivated, which is to be expected in a country with one of the highest population densities. Terraces climb hillsides, allowing crops to be grown on even the highest slopes. But, the genocide is part of the story [View Full Entry]

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Ruboni Community Camp nestles in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains in Western Uganda. The patio outside my banda gave beautiful views towards the mountain range. Ruboni is the starting point for trekking in the Rwenzoris - an activity I never had any intention of doing. All profits from the camp go to help support the community. It was, therefore, bad for the community, but good for me, that for the 3 nights I stayed there, I was the only guest. It was a peaceful haven, with stunning views, friendly staff, perhaps the best vegetarian food I have had in Uganda [View Full Entry]

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My first glimpse of mountain gorillas at Bwindi Impenetrable National Park made the high prices and the journey to get here so worthwhile. I’d left Masaka a week earlier by Post Bus, having failed (twice) to see Shoebills. The Post Buses literally carry post and passengers between post offices along a route. Unusually, or so I was told, the bus I was waiting for was over 2 hours late due to a breakdown. The time was filled by a Ugandan woman occasionally striking up conversation with me: it’s not the first time in my life that I have been asked, “Are [View Full Entry]

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Leaving Kampala, I stopped off in Entebbe for a couple of nights. Entebbe feels and looks like a seaside town, but with Maribou Storks drifting overhead rather than gulls. During the afternoon I walked around the botanical gardens and visited the Wildlife Centre - better than most zoos I have visited - where all the animals have been rescued. The following afternoon I took the ferry to the Ssese Islands. My guidebook doesn't mention this route, but luckily the friends I stayed with in Kampala had a different book. The ferry takes 3 hours. Arriving in Kalangala, I had planned to [View Full Entry]

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Inevitably, having flown from Addis Ababa to Kampala, I am making comparisons. The main differences seem to be things that are missing: Fewer beggars, fewer shoe shines, and definitely less hassle. Kampala is a lovely place - small and compact. Finding my way around was helped, however, by the fact that Fiona and Steffen (friends I am staying with) gave me an orientation tour the day after I arrived. We visited the National Museum as part of the tour which was, as Steffen said in the comments book, 'interesting'. There is a mixed bag of exhibits and a small natural history [View Full Entry]

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My final week in Ethiopia was a busy one. It started with a party, held at my house, which was mainly in order to celebrate Hannah's (VSO from Robe) birthday. I had hired a band - which turned out to be a man with a mixer desk. But the music was good, which was the main thing. At least until the power went off! The 2 hours were filled by Jeremy playing the guitar and volunteers singing. The main concern of the whole evening was whether Hannah, the guest of honour, would actually arrive in time as she travelled from Robe [View Full Entry]

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