Frank Coldwell

Frankandnathan





Travel Blog Posts


Taiwan not Thailand

Published: March 23rd 2011Asia » Taiwan » Taipei
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Frankandnathan
March 17th 2011

After two months of tropical heat and humidity, we have hit the subtropics. In fact, leaving the airport it was decidedly chilly! For the first couple of nights we stayed in Da'an. There is very little English spoken or written around the place, compared with other places in South East Asia, so every day is pretty much an adventure. This is the reason we found ourselves eating a peach shaped ice cream snack with a sneaking feeling that we were doing something wrong... Taipei is easy to get around, there is a great MRT. We put that to good use and visited a million different places. We went to the famous Shilin night market and I had a jelly based drink. We also smelled the famous stinky tofu, which smells like pig slurry! We also used ... read more



Bangkok II

Published: March 17th 2011Asia » Thailand » Central Thailand » Bangkok
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Frankandnathan
March 5th 2011

Bangkok for a second time. We ditched the scabby backpackers and stayed in the hip, modern and classy area of Sukhumvit. After Cambodia all we wanted was public transport and clean, sharp lines. So we hit the city's shopping centre district-Central World, Gaylorn, Siam Square etc. One can catch a sky train and then walk along elevated skyways, no need to touch the ground. Fabulous. They say they're going to extend the skyway network all across the city. Brings a whole new meaning to "Up Town". Bangkok is an amzing place for shopping, especially if you're rich. Everything is designer, and all we wanted was something like a Thai Kmart or an up market Target. Didn't stop us though. We shopped till we dropped, ate great food and got stomach bugs from somewhere. We visited the ... read more



Pepper country

Published: March 15th 2011Asia » Cambodia » South » Kampot
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Frankandnathan
March 4th 2011

Kampot is famous for its pepper and its crabs, and justly so! There is a pretty riverside promenade, with some restaurants and bars. In theory there are things to do, like go to Kep and see some ruined villas, or go to Rabbit Island. You could visit Bokor Hill Station, which is a French hillside station, if it wasn't being redeveloped into a casino. You could go out into the baking heat of the day, and get a tuk tuk to drive you around the hot dusty roads to see a pepper plantation or a cave. However, we didn't do any of those things, except that we saw Kep as we drove through it in the bus. We also skipped the 24 hour psychedelic dance party at the organic resort 3km out of town. We did ... read more



Riverside in Phnom Penh

Published: March 15th 2011Asia » Cambodia » South » Phnom Penh
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Frankandnathan
February 26th 2011

Bus travel in Cambodia is definitely less plush than in Malaysia, and it seems to be a mistake to let the hotel organise anything ever, since you end up with a crappy service at twice the price. Anyway, we bumped along the road south from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh in a minibus which was air conditioned for some of the time. Cambodian road manners are always interesting, the horn seems to mean "dont panic motorbike person, I am going to drive a bus past you and it would be tragic if you swerved"! Phnom Penh has had a tragic history. I don't know how I really feel about the sites of tragedy being turned into tourist attractions. It is strange to have tuk tuk drivers constantly shouting "killing fields" at you. I wonder how they ... read more



Tomb Raiders

Published: March 2nd 2011Asia » Cambodia » North » Siem Reap
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Frankandnathan
February 22nd 2011

Siem Reap is the town for you if you're planning to follow in the footsteps of Angelina Jolie and explore Angkor Wat, although I'm pretty sure that there were no tuk-tuks involved in her case. We arrived by boat, crossing Tongle Sap, SE Asia's largest freshwater lake. We became uncomfortably aware of this fact as the boat spluttered to a halt out of sight of any land. Fortunately, repairs were effected and no swimming or rowing was required on our parts. On the way we passed the floating villages, although there was not much to float in, as it is dry season and the level of the lake is low. Some of the floating houses looked pretty well equipped, with electricity and satellite TV. The journey into town was interesting, clearly there are a lot of ... read more



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Frankandnathan
February 14th 2011

Bangkok airport is lovely, although lacking in good food in the arrivals area. However, after a sausage croissant our complacency was shattered by a trip down the freeway in a taxi at 120kph. The speed limit was 80. Also, we learned a couple of road tips - you can make your own fourth lane by driving down the left hand side of the left lane, and a good time to give lectures on road etiquette to motorbike drivers is when you are going past them in the fast lane, through an open window. Strangely, seat belts in the back seat of taxis seem to be widely regarded as undesirable additions which are best hidden away from passengers who might be offended by their presence. We made it to the backpacker haven of Khoa San road. Whiteys ... read more



Phuket

Published: February 19th 2011Asia » Thailand » South-West Thailand » Phuket
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Frankandnathan
February 11th 2011

We left behind Malaysia and flew into Phuket, Thailand. Our hotel was on the southern end of the island, at a beach called Nai-Harn. Home to a Buddhist monastery, Nai-Harn is said to be the least developed of Phuket's beaches. However we were not actually staying at Nai-Harn beach, but at the nearby town of Nai-Harn, which was quite developed, thankfully, with a full compliment of German-Indian and English-Thai restaurants and many many hostess bars and prostitutes. The beach was lovely, really lovely. The 40 minute walk to the beach from our hotel (said to be 20 minutes by the staff) was not. After hearing of holiday makers suffering real buzz killing moped accidents on Langkawi, and seeing as we had never ridden one, we have decided to never hire a moped. Or even get on ... read more



Penang

Published: February 12th 2011Asia » Malaysia » Penang » George Town
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Frankandnathan
February 7th 2011

So after Langkawi, we headed back to Georgetown for three nights. Staying in the same hotel made us feel as if we were coming home, seeing all the old stains and smelling all the familiar smells that make this part of Georgetown so very memorable. After disembarking from the thankfully seaworthy ferry, we hustled through the crowds to the roadside to get a cab, only to be told that the cab to our hotel would cost 30 MR! Seeing as we paid 12 MR to get the ferry terminal originally we decided to leg it instead. Up bright and early the next day, we headed out of Georgetown to a little tourist trap called the Spice Garden. This is a Garden of Spices. We saw all the spices, and tropical herbs you can think of, and ... read more



More Island life!

Published: February 4th 2011Asia » Malaysia » Langkawi
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Frankandnathan
February 4th 2011

Last day in Langkawi and it feels like the time has flown past. We have been staying at a little out of the way guesthouse with a great view of palm trees and distant forested hills, plus you can watch monkeys playing in the garden and crabs playing in the pond - they must have got a bit lost as the sea is quite far away! We have met some lovely people, Ray and Bev who are staying here too and Rosidi and Mark who own the place. Ray has been telling us about making wigs for Shirley Bassey and Rosidi told me an anecdote about Mel Gibson which I shouldn't repeat. Rosidi's mum has been looking after us. We have also found a great English restaurant which does a good fish and chips and great ... read more



Island life in Georgetown

Published: January 30th 2011Asia » Malaysia » Penang » George Town
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Frankandnathan
January 28th 2011

So we headed for Georgetown. Once the British took over Melaka, they wanted to develop Singapore and Georgetown instead, so Penang has a fair few colonial relics, but is also getting pretty developed these days. We had a short political lecture from the taxi driver on arrival, and he was kind enough to point out the Chief Minister's office 61 floors above the town. He is from the Malaysian opposition party. I should mention how amazing Malaysian coach travel is. It is like flying in first class, except at ground level. The only drawback is no toilets, we dare not drink too much liquids! Hotel room was giant and equipped with superfast internet, so spent some time enjoying that. However, we did venture out to see some sights, take in the loud Bollywood tunes in Little ... read more






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