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EdVallance - Edward Adrian-Vallance

Edward Adrian-Vallance

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I grew up in Oxfordshire, England. From 1995 - 1997 (age 11 - 13) my father worked in Oman and I spent around 8 months there visiting him. Until 1970 the country had been ruled by a Sultan who banned anything modern or Western from roads to electricity to medecine to spectacles. By the time I got there most of it was only accessible by terrible dirt tracks and we spent much of our free time exploring the rugged interior by 4WD, on foot and even by camel. Experiences such as being invited into a one-room mud hut in an isolated mountain village and visiting a Bedouin camel market on the edge of the desert left an indelible impression on me and a thirst for more exotica.

My time in Oman also made me aware of how quickly globalisation is making the world smaller, less varied and less wild. By age 13, villages I had visited aged 11 had telegraph poles running to them, one quaint fishing community had sprouted a giant stone harbour and the dirt track that had served as the main coast road had a new tarmac highway under construction next to it. They were all changes for the better but they gave me the idea that in my lifetime there would be no more opportunities to explore or meet people who lived in a radically different way from me.

I spent the next eight years reading everything I could about tribal people who lived in the deserts, mountains and jungles of the world. In 2005, after living in Argentina for five months, I was finally granted the opportunity to realise my dream by visiting a remote tribe in the Javari Basin of the Amazon Rainforest on the border between Peru in Brazil. After that I was hooked. In 2006 I visited nomads living in the remotest part of the Moroccan Atlas mountains. In 2007 I spent a month traveling independently in West Papua on the island of New Guinea then a week on Siberut, one of Indonesia's Mentawai Islands. My aim has been, wherever possible, to learn some lingua franca before I visit tribal groups so that I can visit them without a guide and can communicate directly with them myself. My style of travel on all of these trips could best be described as neither sight-seeing, backpacking or exploring but more just trying to understand different ways of thinking and viewing life and the world.

In Autumn 2007 I moved to Russia and began teaching English. Working crazy hours for good pay I was able to save up enough money after 9 months to travel for a year. The beginning of that year is where this blog begins. After that year of traveling I returned to Russia, where I am now, to do the same thing again.

Upcoming trips include:

Ukraine for a weekend, sometime before Christmas

Far Eastern Siberia (Krasnoyarsk - Severobaikalsk - Komsomolsk-Na-Amure - Khabarovsk), December 31st - January 10th

Plenty of visits to random towns and villages fairly near Moscow at weekends

4 or 5 months in India and Nepal, May - September 2010

I'm then going to return to Russia and teach for 18 months before setting off on a huge Africa trip, taking in some (or hopefully all!) of the following: Ghana, Mauritania, Mali, Niger, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Tanzania, Central African Republic, DRC, Madagascar, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia.

The top map shows countries I've visited while the map below shows countries I've written about, ie all those I've visited since July 2008

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Joined on: August 8th 2008
Last Login: November 8th 2009

Blog Entries: 43
Photos: 699
Recommended by 17, Recommends 5
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Blogs & Travel Journals

by EdVallance, order by Date newest first.

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Day 1 Arrive Kaunas, Lithuania, night time. Ask young man in airport shop where to get bus to town centre. He smiles and replies in English. Very un-Soviet - in Russia would have had head bitten off for daring to ask such a question. Ask minivan driver in car park which stop to wait at. Jumps out of van and walks me over to right one. Town centre cleaner and roads better quality than most places in Russia. Meet host from couchsurfing near central train station. Completely devoid of usual filth, wasted people and dog / cat shawarma stands found in [View Full Entry]

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2446 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 53 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: November 7th 2009 | 89 Views | [diary=428632]

Coming into Vitebsk region
Polotsk
Didn't expect so see any of these in Belarus!

After two years on the road I finally find myself back in an environment that should be comforting, reassuring and familiar. But it is not. Suddenly, after two years of discovery and exploration where conversations more often than not were about new things we had seen or learned, new ways of living we had experienced, new concepts and ways of thinking we had never known existed before, I am trying to fit back into a society where people talk about ordinary everyday topics. My friends, such familiar faces that I was so happy to see again, have lived utterly different lives [View Full Entry]

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522 Words | 6 Comment(s) | 5 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: November 5th 2009 | 199 Views | [diary=428630]

Village near mine
tractor
Village sign post

I woke up with a nasty headache as the only reminder of the terrifying, agonising attack that had overpowered me the previous day, amazed that such an illness - the worst I had ever experienced - could have come and gone so quickly. Whatever it was, I hoped never to have to endure anything similar again. After a large breakfast our driver Mogi took us out of Tsagaannuur for ten minutes before we alighteed and began walking north towards the taiga forests that were home to the nomadic, reindeer-herding Dukha people. The area, known as the Darkhad Depression, was shared between [View Full Entry]

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5123 Words | 19 Comment(s) | 24 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: August 15th 2009 | 435 Views | [diary=420704]

Dukha tents
Shaman from the third, freezing Dukha encampment
Darkhad family we stayed with on the first night of our trek

Most of the time the only signs of civilisation were the wheel ruts on which our eight-seater Russian 4x4 bumped and bounced for hours on end northwards across the otherwise empty brown plains that stretched as far as the eye could see. Occasionally the barrenness, to which the sparse, crunchy, unhealthy grass was insufficient to lend even a hint of colour yet enough to nurture the odd herd of camels, cows or flock of sheep, was interrupted by a group, usually between one and three in number, of gers, the white felt tents in which half of Mongolia's 2 million-strong population [View Full Entry]

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3170 Words | 9 Comment(s) | 10 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 21st 2009 | 504 Views | [diary=419858]

Darkhad minority people
Camel on the way to Moron
Sunset in Moron

"Eddy! Great!" said the excited voice on the other end of the phone, "Where are you? Did you get across the border OK?" Ten minutes later the voice had materialized into a person, our Couchsurfing host in Ulaanbaatar, Mobgolia's capital city. Begz was a small, thirty three year old man in a beret with a weathered face that, like many Mongolians, made him look older than he really was. Seeing him wheeling his bike, loaded with a 25kg sack of flower, a hoe, a rake and various other gardening tools, towards us down the train station platform, he could easily have [View Full Entry]

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3412 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 16 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 18th 2009 | 256 Views | [diary=404140]

Begz milking his cow
Sukhbaatur Square, Ulaanbaatur
The outskirts of Ulaanbaatur

By EdVallance
April 30th 2009
From Guizhou to Guanxi Asia » China
"Where are you from?" came the first English words we had heard from anyone other than each other in several days. Turning to my right I saw two young, suited Chinese men walking next to me. "England," I replied, "and you?" "We're from Kaili," one of the men answered. We had been there a few days previously having taken the train fifteen hours to the east out of Yunnan province and into Guizhou. A few days spent visiting markets and villages on our way between there and here, the town of Conjiang in the south of Guizhou, had earmarked the province [View Full Entry]

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1001 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 29 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: June 4th 2009 | 265 Views | [diary=403450]

Villager at Basha, Guizhou province
Not sure what this is but it was in a village near Chengyang
Drum Tower in mountain village near Zhaoxing

We arrived in Mengzi, a large modern town of little interest in itself, after a tip off about a market in a village two hours away where some of the craziest traditional tribal dress in Yunnan could be seen. Having stared at us gobsmacked as we entered the hotel, clearly very unused to seeing travelers, one of the women who worked there now trotted down the street in front of us in search of a taxi as fast as she could in her high heels, repeating the word "sorry" time and time again. After she had packed us into the taxi [View Full Entry]

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474 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 35 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: June 1st 2009 | 142 Views | [diary=401548]

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By EdVallance
April 18th 2009
Tribes of Laomang market Asia » China » Yunnan
An hour and a half's bump, jolt and grind down the road from Yuanyang brought us to the fifth ethnic minority market we had visited in as many days (see previous blogs). The hill folk appearing at this market were less colourful but no less visually impressive than at any of the previous ones. As well as many members of the same group to be seen at Yuanyang's market, there were others here dressed entirely in black and wearing tall hats like those of the ancient Egyptian Queen Nefertiti, their sombre outfits starkly contrasting with the enormous multi-coloured turbans that many [View Full Entry]

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314 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 42 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: May 27th 2009 | 142 Views | [diary=401541]

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The village of Huang Cao Ba was a two-hour van ride away from Yuanyang down a bumpy road that ran for much of the way through the bottom of a high, steep-walled gorge. For the first time in Yunnan we began to see the usual concrete houses disappearing to be replaced, just very occasionally, by some of the few dwellings in traditional style that remained to the province. The market itself was like none we had previously visited. The tribal people here were dressed in such bizarre, psychedelic traditional dress that I wondered if their culture had not flowered in an [View Full Entry]

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175 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 22 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: May 25th 2009 | 79 Views | [diary=401536]

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Having visited a market in a nearby village I decided to have a look at the one in Yuanyang itself. The nearby one had been a visual feast, a kaleidoscopic array of colours worn by the local tribespeople who come down from the mountain villages to buy, sell, barter and socialise; to my delight I found more of the same in Yuangyang town itself. [View Full Entry]

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64 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 20 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: May 23rd 2009 | 90 Views | [diary=401526]

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