We left Kathmandu and headed for Pokhara, the jumping off point for Annapurna treks, via tourist bus. Tourist buses in Nepal are not the fancy, comfortable, air-conditioned luxury liners that they are in Taiwan. They're not even the intensely uncomfortable, new, air-conditioned budget mobiles of Japan. They are squeaking, shuddering, cramped, dusty affairs that hurtle along ill-maintained mountain roads passing and being passed with abandon. On the up side, they do only cost $6 for a 6 hour ride, and we got serenaded by some village boys who knew almost all the words to an unending folk song. We spent half
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