Anne-Marie Russell

AMR





Travel Blog Posts


AMR icon
AMR
February 26th 2008

I left El Calafate the day after my mammoth trek in Fitz Roy, and took a short seven hour bus ride across the Chilean boarder to Puerto Natales. The city of Puerto Natales, 247 km. northwest of Punta Arenas, together with black necked swans and seagulls, greets the visitor from its misty dock, characteristic of this rural tourist area. It is capital of the Province of Última Esperanza, situated by the Señoret Channel facing the Andes Mountain Range. Puerto Natales is the gateway to the famous Torres del Paine National Park, which attracts hikers and visitors from all over the world. I arrived in this lovely quite town with the aim of heading off the next day to hike the ´W´. I booked into the coolest hostel called Erratic Rock, which provides a free briefing for ... read more



Fitz Roy

Published: March 14th 2008South America » Argentina » Santa Cruz » El Chaltén
AMR icon
AMR
February 19th 2008

After my visit to the Perito Moreno Glacier, I thought it was time to get back on the hiking trail. This time, my adventures led me to El Chalten and to Mount Fitz Roy. El Chalten is a small hiking village accessible from El Calafate, which is surrounded by towering glaciers, crystal lagoons, vast lakes, and the ever-looming presence of mount Fitz Roy. This is quiet village is often deemed the "National Trekking Capital of Argentina," due to its unparalleled access to glacial terrain. The area is also known, however, for recreational climbing, camping, horseback riding, fishing, and rafting. It was an early morning start from El Calafate and a four hour bus ride to El Chalten. I befriended an Israeli couple on the bus and asked them if they wanted to hike together. The reply ... read more



AMR icon
AMR
February 18th 2008

El Calafate is the gateway to the majestic world of glaciers. This town is near Lake Argentino, a green water surface covering 1,600 km2, with a length of 60 km and a width between 12 and 14 km. It also has great mysterious depths, like all lakes originated from glaciers, ranging from 35 m in Feruglio, on the southern shore, to 300 m off the Avellaneda Peninsula. El Calafate receives its name from the small bush calafate, indigenous of Patagonia. Its fruit is a delicious berry very good for the elaboration of jam. According to tradition, whoever eats calafate will return for more. But reality indicates that whoever visits Calafate wants to stay there forever. The main reason why people come to El Calafate is to view the Perito Moreno Glacier and of course I was ... read more



Little Switzerland

Published: March 14th 2008South America » Argentina » Río Negro
AMR icon
AMR
February 12th 2008

After my mammoth adventure across the lakes, I arrived in Bariloche, the Switerland of Argentina around 9pm. Bariloche is located about 450 miles southwest of Buenos Aires and 50 miles from the Chilean border. The city’s center is comprised of dozens and dozens of lpine chalet-style buildings; each constructed of logs of Argentinean hardwood and covered with sloping green-tiled roofs, and decorated with charming wooden shutters and tiny flower gardens; quite befitting of its European namesake. Set on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, with its brilliant blue-green waters and seemingly endless borders, Bariloche serves as the hub of Argentina’s own Lake District, and the northernmost point of Patagonia. As such, while relatively small, it is a bustling, international city filled with charming cafes, quaint boutiques, fashionable restaurants, luxury hotels, and enchanting lakeside lo... read more



AMR icon
AMR
February 11th 2008

I arrived in Puerto Montt mid afternoon and catch a bus straight to the small town of Puerto Varas about 30min away. Every summer, this staid and manicured former German colony is besieged by visitors (international backpakers and chilians alike). This quant little town is set on the shores of Lake Llanquihue, and on a clear day you have arresting lake views of Volcan Osorno. While the town is rapidly growing and there are possibilities to hike, kayak, fish and ski, it still remains a sleeply little town, and has a long way to go to match Argentina´s Bariloche. I only had a couple of days in Puerto Varas before heading back into Argentina. I was really keen to do some kayaking on the Lakes, but unfortunately no tour operator would sell me a tour as ... read more



Santiago

Published: February 27th 2008South America » Chile » Santiago Region » Santiago
AMR icon
AMR
February 6th 2008

Santiago - it is a city who’s postcard face is that of a modern metropolis poised under gargantuan snow tipped Andean peaks. Its courteous and orderly surface makes it the least intimidating of all Southern American capitals for travellers. The city itself defies pinning down. You can find polished suburbs and worn down cafes, neoclassical architecture dulled to grey and a conservative culture that erupts in street protest every now and then. Perhaps the most evasive face of the city is its lovely mountain backdrop. And every now and again when you are wandering around the city you catch glimpses of the beautiful Andean mountains. It really can catch you by surprise. I was only in Santiago for a day, as it was really just a pit stop in order to catch a flight down south ... read more



Mendoza - Wine country

Published: February 27th 2008South America » Argentina » Mendoza » Mendoza
AMR icon
AMR
January 30th 2008

I think I have caught the best bus in the world. Our bus from Salta to Mendoza was an Imperial Cama. Yes, it did cost a lot, but gee it was worth it. The leather seats fully reclined into a bed, we got served a complete dinner (with wine) and even got a good breaky with great coffee. What more could you ask for??? And, I think it was the first bus I have actually slept on. We arrived in Mendoza around 9am and found our way to a hostel that was recommended in the Lonely Planet. Unfortunately we accidentally checked into the hostel that was next door and it was not quiet as nice as the one we were supposed to stay in. Oh well. For me, Mendoza was going to be all about the ... read more



Salta

Published: February 17th 2008South America » Argentina » Salta » Salta
AMR icon
AMR
January 27th 2008

It was another long day on the bus to get us from Tupiza to Salta. We were up at 3am to catch the 4am (teeth chattering) bus from Tapiza to the boarder. Once we got into Argentina it was about an eight hour bus ride to Salta. We arrived at our hostel about 8pm that night, just in time to have a quick shower and head out with a group from the hostel to a traditional folklore resturant. This was my first introduction to Argentinean meat, and by god it was good. I am not a massive steak eater, and this thing was massive. I did pretty well and managed to polish almost all of it off. Ahh yumm…… Over the next couple of days, me and Karin didn’t really do too much except sit around ... read more



´Ride em cowboy!´

Published: February 6th 2008South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Tupiza
AMR icon
AMR
January 24th 2008

After finishing off our Salares tour late in the afternoon we were lucky enough to score tickets on the night train out of Uyuni to Tupiza. Once again there were troubles with the roads south, so we were very lucky to be in possesion of these train tickets. After another long night of no sleep, the next morning me and Karin said goodbye to Bridget and Russell and got off at Tupiza for a couple of days in the wild west. If there is any where that you want to throw your leg over a hourse, brandish spurs and say, ´ride em cowboy´ this is it. Reminiscent of the American wild west, but more spectacular, the tranquil settlement is set at 2950m and ringed by an amzing landscape of rainbow coloured rocks, hills, mountains and canyons ... read more



Uyuni

Published: February 6th 2008South America » Bolivia » Potosí Department » Salar de Uyuni
AMR icon
AMR
January 21st 2008

Okay, so our 7 - 20 hour bus ride ended up being 10 hours. We were doing really well until we came to the big river crossing. We all had to get out to lighten the load before the bus driver tried to negociate the dry, but very soft, river bed. As we made our way across, we all had a good chuckle at another bus that was bogged. Well we all laughed too soon, because as we turned around we saw our bus drive about 20 metres into the river bed and get stuck. Just great. After about 20min of digging and pushing our bus was free and off it went.......and then got stuck about 50 metre away. Crap. We tried and tried to get it but it just kept sinking and sinking. In the ... read more






Tot: 0.174s; Tpl: 0.007s; cc: 12; qc: 74; dbt: 0.0682s; 1; s:apollo w:www (50.28.60.10); sld: 3; ; mem: 6.6mb