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Published: October 9th 2005
Doll delights
These little statues have so much colour, one of my favourite photosI boarded the night train with much anticipation of the 12 hours ahead. I had bought a hard bed ticket, but didn't get the requested bottom bunk in order to guard my bag more closely. No worries, I could read my book with my feet resting on my pack until the train stopped. There didn't seem to be any communal areas, and if it makes me feel better to guard my stuff, than why not?
When I finally settled and introduced myself to my new room mates I felt a bit silly and a bit overprecautious of my belongings. The three blind men shook my hand (or what they thought was my hand!!) and offered me a cup of coffee from their thermos. How perfect! I settled in for a peaceful night ahead as the train chugged itself north. No need to panic so much about my belongings. Listening to some tunes to lull myself to sleep is not normally something I have any difficulty with. But this night became the exception. Some children and even some adults sing nursery songs to sleep. My adapted version will stick with me forever, "Three Blind Men, three blind men. Hear How
Temple Turtles
This was taken at the Temple of Literature dedicated to Confucius. Each turtle is dedicated to those who received a doctorate from studying at the temple by 1442. They Snore, hear how they snore. Would it be wrong to throw a pillow at them? Would they still think of me as a Canadian gem? Three blind men. Loud loud men." And that was my night.
Arriving at Hanoi rail station at 6am was a bit of an eye opener. Greated with the usual crowds of moto drivers telling me that the guy on my right shoulder likes to feel women up, the guy on my left shoulder gets lost with his eyes wide open, "...but me? I'll give you a good price and a good ride". Not wanting to be found in a Vietnamese prison or hospital for trying to evade the situation, I headed towards a phone and called my hostel for a free ride. Ironic that I ended up in the hospital a few days later anyways. In the excitement of seeing the hostel moto driver approach me, I stumbled forward down some steps propelled by the pack on my back. A little scrape on my toe and knee, but I made it to the comforts of Hanoi's Backpackers Hostel and showered and readied for the day ahead.
I met up with
Coffeeshop view
I was with Gemma and Erica at a great coffee shop rest station. Perhaps not taken at the peak of traffic, but it gives you an idea of the area Gemma again, and we teamed up with Irish Erika for a stroll around town. We headed towards the lake a few blocks away and explored the temple in the middle. A calm start to the big city, although crossing the road was an adventure as always. As the Hanoi Backpackers is so conveniently situated in the center of the old quarter, we didn't have to stroll far to be impressed with a few shops. Streets here are dedicated to one particular product for the entire street, so we had a good chance to bargain and see all possible ranges. I didn't mean to buy anything really, but the silk placemats will compliment the Thai dinner set bought last month. How domesticated I've become living life on the road! Perhaps this is the back of my brain telling me to settle down? In due course, one day when I do have a house and a permant home I will certainly have some of the best dinner parties in town!
We jumped in a taxi towards the Temple of Literature, a must see in Hanoi according to Lonely Planet. Dedicated to confucius, the temple welcomed us to a calm environment
Gemma hat
Gemma trying to be a local with a strw bonnet scattered with stone turtles. Former students here in the 1400's were remembered by those to follow with the scripture honouring their studies. A concert in the back hall introduced us to some more Vietnamese instruments that created some very unique sounds. When we rounded off the tour with a stop in the gift shop, I was entertained with a book written about the poor life of single women in Vietnam. It spoke of the destitute situation that some women found themselves in, so with a giggle I returned the book to the bottom shelf and carried on with my travels...as a happy single woman in Vietnam!
Walking back to the hostel we faced more scenes along the street that identified the different way of life here. Men had a shave and a haircut on the side of the road, whilst women elegantly walked by wearing their ao dai outfits (wide legged trousers with a fitted flowing top to their knees). Fruit sellers push their hanging baskets from a wooden plank across their shoulders, straight into your walking path to try and ancourage a sale. And when we sat back in a coffee shop (mmmmmmmm, very good coffee here
Red bridge
Located within Hoan Kiem Lake towards Ngo Son Temple. Legend has it that the lake is home to a golden tortoise that stole a sword from the invading Chinese with fresh milk!!) and people watched further, we realized that the women did everything in their power to avoid getting any colour from the sun. Partly to avoid moto fumes as well, but the hat, mask, neck scarf and long gloves is quite opposite to our western ways of trying to catch more of a golden look. Even in the cosmetics department the face creams and deoderants advertised their whitening agents with pride. Interesting how opposite features are across the world.
The next morning I was collected early for my three day Halong Bay tour. When we stopped for lunch I had a chance to run up to the street side chemist for some bandages and antiseptic...my mini injuries weren't looking so good. Perhaps selling my first aid kit to make more room in my bag wasn't such a good idea after all. But they're such little scrapes really, I'll be fine. Tough Canadian girl.
Within the hour I hobbled on board the junk boat that would be my home for the next couple of days. As soon as we set sail, the sight of the towering limestone islands covered with green vegatation calmed all nerves.
Roof dragons
I love the detail even on the rooftops of the Temple of Literature. Lind of look like swimming creatures! The storm seemed to blow away from us and we peacefully took in the stunning beauty of the northern Vietnam coast. And then I put my camera to work as did the crowds sitting around me. We stopped to climb up and into one of the biggest caves I have ever seen. Nicknamed 'Bat Cave' I thought of those painful rabies shots I'd had months earlier and proceeded without fear. Stallagtites and stallagmites highlighted by blue and green spotlights and I was in awe of the natural beauty of it, but still eager to return to the refreshing boat journey.
Passing by 3000 islands can certainly take awhile, which gave everybody on board a chance to do whatever they wanted. Reading books, drinking beers, slapping on more sunscreen, it was all calming and pleasurable. Like lying down in a grass field watching the clouds form unusual pictures, we often found similar characteristics in the passing islands. Although some of them you really didn't have to think about for long to see what it looked like most!!
We stopped at a fishing village and had a chance to explore a bay accessed only by rowboat. Of course
Street barber shop
The service is just right as their rent is non-existant and you're the only one around! this isn't included in the package, but I was curious so paid the extra dollar. We ducked our heads for just a moment, and were then greated with a tranquil environment overlooked by several birds of prey. Watching them dive and chase each other in flight was mesmerizing. Too much time spent gawking wasn't in the schedule so we moved on and had a chance to see a few other islands up close. Before boarding our boat again, we swung by one of the fishing houses. The dogs went a bit crazy but the inhabitants smiled from ear to ear. How can they be so friendly to us when we're touring their way of life? I suppose they've clued in to life being enjoyed with simple pleasures, and a smile is on the top of the list. And I'd be smiling every day as well if I saw the same natural beauty surrounding me each morning.
Soon after the sun set behind the clouds and jagged island edges, we pulled up to Cat Ba Island. Some of those on the boat left for their hotel accomodation, whilst the rest of us sat back and looked forward to dinner
Narrow buiding
Apparently the house tax is based partly on the width of the building, so this place will be one of the most desirable places in town!! and further exploration. I was roomed with another Canadian girl so I had somebody to laugh with when we entered our quarters. The picture of the Vietnamese water nymph over our beds encouraged me slightly to take my bedding and sleep on the top deck. Unless they decide to put a photo of Brad Pitt over my bed, I think I made a wise decision. Water nymphs can start to look scary after a few drinks!!
The shooting stars were endless, perhaps because of the added benefit of the vodka and cokes. I had many interesting conversations that night, all with people that I could only hear because of the blackness of our surroundings. I never seem to be too far away from Irish or Scottish travellers, sending my accent into another round of, "Where ARE you from?". All part of the coffeecat entertainment I suppose.
As soon as my eyes creaked open long enough to remember where I was, I strapped my suit on and took a plunge into the salty water. A few laps around the boat and I was being called in for breakfast. We set sail back to the island and were
Vietnamese Chess
As all the moto drivers wait for passing jobs, bets are placed on the ongoing chess games led to the hotel to leave our bags in our second night of accomodation. As much as I pleaded to stay on the boat for another night, it wasn't part of the itinerary so I hung my head and followed the herd. After a quick refresher I had strapped my hiking boots on all ready for a day of hiking. Looking around I felt a bit out of place as everybody else had prepped for the day still wearing their sandals. Having carried these large boots with me for the last 5 months, I was determined to show my climbing eagerness. It also ensured that my poor little toe was protected from the wilds of the jungle. The feared infection had definitly set in, but best to deal with that later.
When we reached the peak of the mountain and looked back on the coastline, most of us fell silent. The camera clicks soon broke through the moment, and we proceeded down. I was disappointed that the hike was turning out to be a stroll uphill, so I latched on to the guide to ask of alternative routes I could walk by myself for the rest of the
Moto traffic
It's hard to imagine that just 7-8 years ago motos were rare and bicycles were the biggest mode of transport! afternoon. "Aaaaahhhhh," he responded, "fat woman!" Yes yes yes, I admit I'm holding onto a little more than others, but I'm still not quite used to the Vietnamese reaction to me just being me. He punched my arm and smiled and laughed, and then started rubbing my calf with his hand. This is a reaction I've had whilst sitting on the back of a moto, whilst shopping for tourist trinkets and even when ordering a beer. I have to remember that to the Vietnamese, it is not an insult to comment on being slighty bigger as most of them seem to think I just have more money to spend. Regardless, it's hard to get used to.
Before I parted for the walk, our guide took us into another cave. This cave had been used by the Vietnamese as a hospital during the war thus had many nooks to walk into. Again, the fresh air was a pull back outside and Cara the Canadian and I began the walk back. There were a couple of caves we found along the way that hadn't been explored, making the break from the group an added bonus. We passed development billboards informing
Me in traffic
It gets your heart going when you're in the middle of it! Always cross with care, i.e. slowly all of the future resort plans on this sleepy island. It was hard to imagine how this quiet island with peaceful villages will look in just a few years time. I suppose I should count myself lucky to have seen it underdeveloped, and just hope that the future doesn't mimick Walt Disney.
After lunch we meandered over to a local beach for a swim. Cat Ba isn't a place known for its' beaches (yet) but flopping around in the water was enough for me. Before long, it was time to join the other tourist crowds for a few drinks and a boogie at the local club. The techno wasn't quite my scene so I made my way back to the hotel with the pulsating toe pains and slept until being carted to breakfast in the morning.
The boat journey back to Halong City was more peaceful than the journey in as there were only a few of us on board. We could only stand our feet on the burning rooftop for a few moments, making the jump into the water was a little quicker than I had intended. But floating on my back in the middle
Dancing Divas
I couldn't quite get the right light, but these ladies used the Vietnamese conical hats to accentuate their dance for the upcoming 'Ladies Day'!
of Halong Bay was certainly a moment to cherish on this trip. THIS is why I wanted to see Vietnam. Turns out that I was able to cherish the sunshine a little longer than intended, as the engine packed in and we had to wait for a tow. No worries, apart from needing a doctor for the growing toe.
Once back in Hanoi I was greeted at the hostel by familiar faces and had a chance to snooze some more before my appointment at the international clinic. The medical attention was certainly required as the infection had spread, enough to require an antibiotic drip and a painful thorough cleaning. It seems as though my stay in Hanoi would be extended until there were no more concerns. Such is life. So I had a few more days to explore the city, although I didn't walk far and really do too much. I re-joined Gemma and Erika for a night at the Baracooda Bar. Hadn't expected to be taking part in a pub quiz with pitchers of cocktails, but it certainly caused an entertaining night. The toe was soon forgotten, and coming in second place was more reason to celebrate
Lottery ticket sales
All you need for an office is a plastic chair, a card table and a few lottery tickets! life to it's fullest. We took a moto back just before sunrise and even then, we were hit with the differences of life in Vietnam. We passed a market that was heaving with people selling pineapples and potatos. Do these people ever stop working?
After my next visit to the clinic, I joined Erika in the hair salon. Even though I'm travelling, it's nice to splurge every now and then! I had my hair straightened in order to avoid the humidity frizz for the next few months of my travels. It was a painful experience (gentle was not an option) but nearly 5 hours later I left the salon just a few dollars lighter and with hair that would no longer attract the nickname 'Afro Fi'. As Erika and I had seen the light of splurging, we decided to go for a massage next. We learned that this was not a skill that the Vietnamese have a great aptitude towards as the Thai do. We were pinched and prodded for nearly an hour whilst the tiny ladies hopped up and over us lying in our towels. It was hard not to giggle when I heard Erika's masseur yell
"Big bum!" with a slap to Erika's rear. My turn was next however, and when I flipped over to have my front massage, I was surprised to have my boobs pushed together and played with like that of a 15 year old boy seeing his first woman in the flesh. Oh the stories and experiences that travelling can bring!!
Erika and I also went to see a water puppet show which I found quite funny even though I closed my eyes for a little while; sleeping can happen anywhere these days! We roamed the streets for a few last minute purchases, but I left with no more bags. I refuse to pay more than $2 for my sunglasses these days as I'm on my sixth pair. How I can loose or break them so quickly is beyond me. And thanks mom, for ensuring I didn't bring my gucci's!! Stopping to people watch and slurp another fresh fruit slushy is all that I really need in this town. So many Vietnamese people are a pleasure to watch. From doing their early morning excercises to belting out their karioke songs at full blast, these people have such great character.
After my final visit to the clinic to ensure that all was cured and I was really okay to move on, I gulped at the bill presentation and thanked my lucky stars for insurance coverage. $800 US for all of the antibiotics and dressing changes! Perhaps owning a medical clinic abroad should have been my money making calling!! Ah well, I have my ticket to good health in addition to the bus over to Laos. My time in Vietnam is over for now, but I definitly definitly want to return as I'm eager to explore Sapa and more of the coast. Travelling is much easier here than in Cambodia and finding a place to stay like the Hanoi Backpackers makes it all the better. Friendly friendly people and the best banana jam ever!
I have just a couple of weeks left before leaving from Singapore so I must squeeze in a bit of Laos and another Thai beach. Love and laughs to everybody!
-Fiona
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about the tortoise
uhm, it's not really what the legend about. That tortoise gave Le Loi (later became Vietnam's emperor) a magic sword that help him to defeat the chinese. Then after that, he returned that sword to the tortoise at this lake. That's why its named Hoan Kiem. Hoan Kiem means "give back the sword"