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Published: October 8th 2005
Dragon Tree
This creature is seen in various forms across the cityThe minibus to the border wasn't quite what I or the others has been expecting. Unlike the big organized buses I'd previously taken across Cambodia, we were squished into a minibus that spat exhaust back at us. But rather than deal with another delay into Vietnam, we grumbled and accepted. Should have grumbled a little louder once at the border, as I was duped out of $1 which I later found out was a custom official pocket liner. At least it was a small amount!
We had a chance to leave our luggage at the tour company in Saigon in order to look around for a decent hotel. Is it Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City? Officially, and on any map it's HCMC, but in day to day conversation it is still lovingly called Saigon. Having changed the city's name back in 1976 when Vietnam finally unified, Ho Chi Minh was the most respected leader of Vietnamese independance, and a suitable name that will eventually stick on the end of everyone's tongue.
Within a few minutes of walking through the streets of this city my eardrums were quivering with horns, beeps, toots and blaring sirens just letting
Modern Mary
Neon Mary within Notre Dam Cathedral me know that they're going to be passing me in a second. "Okay okay okay!" It's a learning curve in the correct procedure of crossing the street, but certainly managable with a pounding heart beat. As 20 people per day die in a motorcycle accident, it's wise to keep your eyes open and head turning. Hester and I circled our way through the streets to find the Reunification Palace. It was more of a place to just walk by although the surrounding park was pleasant. Having been built in 1966 to serve as South Vietnam's presidential palace, it was then taken over in 1975 by communist tanks that rolled in and took over Saigon. A few blocks away we found Notre Dame which I found rather amusing. The sight of Mary surrounded with neon lights in front of the beautiful stained glass windows sparked some interesting conversation in the modernization of Christianity. If this is what it takes for youngsters to have more beliefs, than the neon lighting industry has a new avenue. Watch out Las Vegas!
We also popped our heads into the War Remnants Museum, which was interesting to see the other side of the story.
What I have always learned as the 'Vietnam War' is thought of only as the 'American War' here. The pictures and stories displayed were disturbing and had similarities to the tortures I saw from the Khmer Rouge in Cambodia. Feeling overwhelmed with military, war, death and the hard realities of such pains we moved along.
I had been looking forward to trying Vietnamese food since I polished up my spice senses at the cooking course. Spring rolls were not hard to find and very unlike versions in the rest of Asia. I tried some noodle soup one night, but unfortunetly couldn't stomach the beef. I had been hoping to stay cheap cheap in the food options by eating street food, but have had a few too many meals that tainted my taste buds. Luckily the best food is yet to come.
Hester and I signed up for a one night Mekong Delta tour that would tour us through the many islands within the wide expanse of the Mekong River near Ben Tre. It was very touristy in what we saw but we still found it interesting. Bought a few coconut candies (sickly addictive) and watched some
folk singers work their fingers around foreign looking instruments. I tried playing the coconut shell with long upright strings and a bow but the sounds I created scared off all the locals. When Hester took over her violin experience gave her quite a head start. We were then carted off along a windy water passage in a rowboat. When the conical straw hat was placed on my head I felt a bit silly, but realized it wasn't an insult to be wearing this Vietnamese legend as locals still do wear them everyday.
The accomodation that had been arranged for the night was a homestay, with a local family instead of a hotel just like every well else. After another boat trip and a walk on a narrow path, we were met by the family. Dinner soon followed as we sat in a circle on the living room floor. The variety of dishes increased my appetite and the family entertainment kept us all laughing. A Japanese couple had brought some neon bracelets for the kids that caused fits of giggles and poses throughout the night. We drank the home brewed rice wine with gusto for a few hours of
animated conversation. I had quite a surprise when I went to brush my teeth in the loo and came face to face with the family pigs living a few feet away. Finally, it was time to pass out under the mosquito net.
The agenda for the following day began at 6am for breakfast in order to catch the floating markets early enough. It certainly wasn't the same as the colurful touristy Thai version as these boats were much more spread out and catered to local restaurants stocking up for the day. We visited a rice noodle making factory and I empathized with the hot working conditions. I also now appreciate the steps it takes before they land on my plate. When we stopped for lunch that day there were a few things on the menu that tempted the curious. And if there's only one chance in a lifetime, why not try it? The locals eat a lot of frogs, snails, dog, snake and scorpions, so having surveryed the choices I opted for trying the snake. My chopsticks reached towards one of the larger pieces which might have been a bit of a mistake. The taste of the meat
was okay, quite chicken like, but the effort it took to chew through the skin over the next 5 minutes caused a rather unpleasant ending. Now I know why so many bags and shoes are made of snake!
My final day in Ho Chi Minh City was a people watching day mixed with internet catch up. Looking off of the balcony at the guest house and watching the activities below is mesmerizing. Locals having facials and plucking each others' grey hairs whilst the cyclo and moto drivers snooze with their feet on the handlebars. Then there are the chaps that just bring their plastic stools out onto the pavement as an extension of their living room to have a cup of tea. I've come to like the plastic stools more than the plastic chairs as I've stood up a couple of times with the chair still stuck to my big bum. Mind you, any of these chairs that I sit in I feel like I should be attending kindergarten as they're so small. I then bought a bus ticket up to Hue which most people break up with 2 or 3 stops along the way. The open buses
tickets make travelling for travellers extremely easy. If I had time to explore more places I certainly would, but making my way up to Halong Bay in the north is the main goal. Perhaps a flight would have been better, but as I can manage to sleep on the buses no problem and they're incredibly cheap I don't really mind the 24 hour adventure.
When I pulled into Hoi An my connecting bus had been cancelled which ended up being a good opportunity for some fresh air and a short exploration before continuing my journey in a few hours. The travel agent kept my big pack and even offered a shower which I jumped at. I may have stunk too much for a conversation with them or maybe they were just very nice, regardless it was appreciated. When I began walking the streets in the old town I began to understand why so many people have clothes tailored to fit here. The limitless available silk, the skilled seamstresses working in the windows and the sales people enticing me in for a fitting were endless. If only I were staying, and didn't have a pack, and needed a suit!
Snake
Uuuggghhhhhh! This was a moment not to repeat. My love for snakes has not grown, but at least I tried. The tears of laughter and fear were luckily hidden by the hat... Next time!
Walking around the market, stopping into a chinese style temple and stopping for Hoi An's famous .......... was an extremely rushed view of what seemed like a beautiful place. And then my bus arrived so it was time to move on. When I jumped on board I started talking with Gemma whom I had met at the beginning of my time in Cambodia. She was a bit worse for wear on the boat at that time, so it was good to see she had some new life in her.
We ended up sharing a room in Hue and having rather an early night, all ready for the next day when we would explore a little more. In the morning we eventually found a place for a coffee (but no food) and then decided to rent a bike. Not having the time to pedal around all the sights of Hue, we opted for a motorbike and I had a quick lesson before we headed off to the outskirts of the city. Knowing of the number of moto related deaths in the cities and having seen the travellers road rash a few times, I was very
slow and very cautious. When we hit the open road passing rice paddies and little villages, it was hard not to break out into "Booooooooorn to be Wiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiilllllllllllldddd", although those were nearly all the words we could remember to the song!
When we reached our chosen destination, a Japanese style covered bridge, we were met by several locals having a nap within the ancient bridge. As within Cambodia, the kids got up for a boogie on film as soon as they saw my camera. The difference here being that they weren't then asking for money. We continued our tour after a drinkstop, and headed into town. Feeling a bit more confident on the bike we came a bit too close to one bicycle, but it didn't stop us from continuing. We saw the main palace in town but decided it would be more fun exploring on the bike. We navigated our way through the one way streets, got lost a couple of time, even faced an army truck head on at one point. Would have loved to have been able to photograph that one as the men stood up in the back over the cab of the truck,
Rowboat2
I think our rowmaster was about 75 years old, and happy to cart us along. and fanned out from each front door looking like a giant green peacock from a distance. We also saw different school classes doing their stretching excercises underneath the main walls of the palace.
Returning to our area of accomodation, we found something to eat and twiddled our thumbs whilst the power was out, which is a frequent occurance in this area. Even though I had only spent 24 hours here, it's time to move on. I have bought a sleeper train ticket to Hanoi for my final few days in Vietnam.
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Dad and Connie
non-member comment
your travels
Hi Fiona,we certainly enjoy reading your travel journals,you seem to have covered a lot of ground and eaten some interesting meals !! Here fall has come and its the rainy season again !! We have a good tomato crop,lots of chutney and sun dried salsa etc etc !!Busy coaching at Carson and working up Grouse.Great to hear from you. Love,Dad and Connie