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Asia » Uzbekistan » Samarkand May 3rd 2016

The road, in this case, was a railroad, as a train journey from Bukhara to the nation's 2nd largest city, Samarkand, is the best means of getting from A to B, in terms of time vs cost factor. The centrepiece of Samarkand happens to be the nation's most revered treasure known as the Registan, and is a centrally-located masterpiece which could accurately be described as the final word in impressive Uzbek architecture. Staying at the backpacker-friendly B&B Bahodir meant that the Registan was a mere few footsteps away, and the 3 facades which collectively constitute the Registan are destined to etch themselves on a visitor's mind in such a way that they are likely to be one's most lasting impression of all Uzbekistan. Upon entering each facade, a different atmo... read more
Fountain with wall mural (Samarkand; Uzbekistan)
The entrance to an outlying market (Urgut; Uzbekistan)
The Shahi Zinda Ensemble (Samarkand; Uzbekistan)

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara May 1st 2016

In the wake of the successful 2014 trip to 2 'stans, namely Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, another 'stan was on the cards, this time in the shape of Uzbekistan. A flight from Tashkent's domestic terminal to Bukhara's (only) terminal kicked off the first leg of the journey, and the first glimpse of the city made it pretty clear that this was the essence of the Silk Road of traditional times, which has barely been altered by the onslaught of modernization. Lunch at a local chaikhana (canteen) was quickly followed up by a flash tour of three attractions on the city's outskirts which typify the traditional and grand nature of Uzbek architecture and style. Throw in a local market with bargain-basement prices for good measure, and it all served to make the already-evident charms of the Emir's palace ... read more
Typical views at an outlying mosque (Bukhara; Uzbekistan)
Close-up of an Uzbek dome (Bukhara; Uzbekistan)
Central Bukhara and one of the many city squares (Bukhara; Uzbekistan)

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara April 27th 2016

Day 93 Wednesday 20th April 2016 – Samarkand to Bukhara Training it today, and our Ticket out of Samarkand wasn’t till midday so there was no need to be out of bed at the crack of dawn. When we did get up we discovered that it was raining heavily so it looked like it was going to be a damp exit. Had breakfast packed our bags and checked out for our 10.30 taxi to the train station. The hotel thankfully gave us a free taxi to the station, where we got drowned running to the terminal. Waited nearly an hour on the platform where we managed to keep moderately dry although the roof leaked everywhere. The roof however was small and the train was long and our carriage was at the furthest point from ... read more
Bukhara - Mir-i-Arab Medressa
Bukhara
Bukhara - Char Minar

Asia » Uzbekistan » Samarkand April 22nd 2016

Day 89 Saturday 16th April 2016 – Tashkent to Samarkand Moving city today and we are both excited about this one because we are going by train. Both love train travel and we take this option every time we can, so both were looking forward to Uzbekistan because we can get so much of it. Up at 6, for an early breakfast and a check out and then a taxi to the train station. Uzbekistan has a superfast train called the “Afrosoiyob” which travels at 250km/h between Tashkent and Samarkand. Contemplated getting tickets for it but they were more expensive and although they would get us to Samarkand earlier we couldn’t book into our hotel earlier, so it wasn’t going to help us. Personally I think the “Afrosoiyob” train would have to be the ... read more
Gur-E-Amir Mausoleum
The Registan
The Registan

Asia » Uzbekistan » Samarkand October 19th 2015

We entered Uzbekistan along the Fergana valley. This is a valley of cotton, nicknamed "white gold" in Uzbekistan. It is also a valley of suspected Islamic militancy. The flat countryside is a shock after Kyrgyzstan's endless mountains. We climb out of the valley across the Kamchik pass, 2268 metres, the only way for the Silk Road to progress west. The pass is a security zone, heavily policed because of suspected heroin smuggling and concerns over those Islamic militants. We are not allowed to travel across in our truck as all "buses" are banned because of a bus crash ten years ago. And we are not allowed to take photos while crossing. Uzbekistan is a place that like rules! Tom drives the truck over the pass during the night to avoid paying bribes to the security forces. ... read more
Our yurt
Plov
Gill and some Uzbek students

Asia » Uzbekistan » Fergana October 7th 2015

We drive out of the large city of Tashkent, on a well-maintained dual carriageway, passing large Soviet-style buildings, modern factories and extensive newly built apartment blocks. We are soon gradually increasing in altitude as we head towards the distant mountains, and the Kamchik Pass, which winds its way through a section of the Tian Shan Mountains. The temperature starts to fall, the road narrows, the views become more extensive as we see snow covered peaks in the distance. We stop for a break at some roadside stalls, but decide against buying any of the white balls of dried goats cheese, which the locals are encouraging us to try!! The road is partially blocked by great flocks of sheep, leaving the hills before the start of winter weather, hastened along by shepherds, as the black sheep swarm ... read more
Fergana Valley watermelons
Stallholder selling balls of dried goats cheese
Views across the Tian Shen Mountains from the Katchim Mountain Pass

Asia » Uzbekistan » Samarkand October 5th 2015

Following in the footsteps of Alexander the Great and many other great explorers during the subsequent 2500 years, we arrive at Registan Square in Samarkand - the crossroads of the great Silk Road of Central Asia. The Registan Square really is one of the wonders of the world - it is truly awe-inspring. A large central open square is surrounded, on three sides, by Shir Dor Madrassah, Ulug Beg Madrassah and the Tillya Kari Madrassah. The facades, columns and archways are covered by brightly coloured tiles with geometric designs and patterns, with minarets and bright blue copulas. Within each madressah the former student cells have been converted into artisan workshops, small tourist shops selling silks, bags and scarves. We hear stories and tales of Timur the Great (Tamerlane) - how he ruthlessly built his empire only ... read more
Mausoleum at night - Samarkand
Blue domed mosque - Samarkand
Registan Square - Samarkand

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara October 3rd 2015

We start our journey across the Kzyzlkum desert, from Khiva to Bukhara, 450km of sand and scrubland, which will take 9 hours. The first 200 km is on a recently-made smooth dual carriageway but after this we bump and bounce our way along a rough, frequently potholed road and eventually arrive in Bukhara shaken but not quite stirred!! We have our evening meal in the hotel, which is one of our worst meals so far, and unfortunately several of the group, including both WanderingPeter and Alison are struck down with a dose of "Bukhara Belly" which curtails our exploration of Bukhara somewhat. One or other of us, however, does manage to see the wonderful Kalon Mosque, the Kalon Minaret (1127), demonstrations of the famous Bukhara carpet weaving and a meal at the house of a miniaturist ... read more
Gold teeth are all the fashion in Uzbekistan
The Rough road to Bukhara
The road across the Kzyzlkum desert

Asia » Uzbekistan » Bukhara September 29th 2015

Khiva hidden in the Kyzylkum desert of North West Uzbekistan is one of the remotest of the great silk road cities of Uzbekistan situated a mere 18-day camel caravan ride from Bukhara. The great mud-brick city walls, built to repel marauders, surround the old inner city, the Ichan Kala. Once the hordes of Genghis Khan, but now tourists, can gain entrance through one of the four great gateways. As we walk through the gateway we enter a world of madrassahs, minarets, pale clay-coloured buildings, narrow alleys and great mausoleums adorned with indigo blue and green tiles. The scene is mesmerising with the short somewhat stumpy Kalta Minor minaret being the star of the show! The next building is the Kukhna Ark, the oldest section of the original fortress, some 1500 years old. Within the walls there ... read more
Colourful cupolas in Khiva
Mud-brick old city walls - Khiva
Uzbek elders in front of the city walls - Khiva

Asia » Uzbekistan » Tashkent September 27th 2015

At last, we are traversing a section of the ancient Silk Road - travelling around the major "Silk Road Cities" of Uzbekistan. We arrived in the early morning in Tashkent - the exotically named capital city. Driving around the city we were amazed by the tree-lined, wide roads with extensive Russian-style buildings. A massive square, with a central statue of Timerlane on horseback - the Uzbek national hero, had pride of place. The whole square was surrounded by impressive large white buildings, headquarters of banks and industries, and the stark soviet built Hotel Uzbekistan. The Kukeldash Mosque, with its turquoise-coloured dome sparkling in the sun was magnificent, together with sandalwood pillars, tile and brick work. The adjacent medrassahs, a small museum, housing the world's oldest Koran, and other buildings formed a scene of Central Asia and ... read more
Non bread - Tashkent
Entrance to the Museum of Applied Arts - Tashkent
Applique embroidery - Museum of Apllied Arts - Tashkent




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