Trip to Phi Phi (and drama on the high seas!)

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Ko Phi Phi is a neighbouring island to Ko Lanta where we have based ourselves. Back in 2006 and again in 2008 we visited Ko Phi Phi and loved it.
Since then we've heard many stories about how much it's been over developed and so, until now, avoided returning.

Being so close here, curiosity got the better of us and we decided to take a day trip and see for ourselves.

Our 'taxi' arrived almost on time and got us to the pier at Saladan at 7.55am with five minutes to spare before the ferry was due to sail. The ferry was also only five minutes late setting off so quite a record in these parts!

The journey was supposed to take an hour, however, as we sailed merrily along at break neck speed there was a horrible grinding sound and a sudden jolt, then all was silent!
We bobbed up and down on the sea for a while and everyone looked around at each other fearing the worse. Had the engine broken down?
There was much talking between the crew then one put on a mask and jumped off the back of the ferry.

A short while later the engine sprung into action and we were off again. This time though, the boat only limped along at a much slower speed before breaking down again but then restarting, thankfully.

As a consequence we arrived 40 minutes late. Luckily we had a 6 hour window of time to explore the island so not too bad.
As we disembarked the first thing we noticed, instead of cute little shops, bars and restaurants, a McDonald's had sprung up plus a Burger King. So the stories we'd heard were true!

We walked past the town/ shopping area to the beach opposite the pier. There is just a strip of flat land on this island connecting two tall lime karsts/ mountains. This was the bit of land that had been badly hit in the tsunami in 2004. The wave came from both sides. It is now hardly recognizable due to the development.
Made me wonder wonder what the victims of the tsunami would make of it now, if they could see it.

This beach was still as beautiful as we remembered, a few big hotels had been built but back from the beach so didn't spoil the views too much.

After a lot of clicking with the camera we made our way back over to the main town and went in search of our old haunts on the way to Long Beach. The places we'd stayed were still there but much updated plus many more besides.

The path to Long Beach was now developed. We remembered years ago we'd scrambling over rocks to get there. Not anymore , steps and concrete walkways have been laid One bit, however was breaking up and falling away , further on to get onto Long Beach there was a series of ropes to climb down as well as using tree roots and it was quite tricky but we made it. Bit strange really to go to the trouble of laying paths then leaving you high and dry with only ropes at one point!

We finally reached the end of Long Beach. From here we used to swim out in the early morning to see sharks. Stan had hoped to repeat this, although it was highly unlikely there would be any sharks around by this time of day. However the area was full of boats now so I was happy that he decided not to try.

After a refreshing dip in the sea and a long lie on the sand in the shade of a tree we set off again.
This time we wanted to get over the steep hill to the other side of the island to the quiet beach of Ao de Lah Moodee.

What a change! What used to be a dirt track was now a concrete roadway lined with expensive looking bungalows. The road was so steep that I found myself walking backwards ( not easy in flip flops) at one point as my calf muscles screamed at me.
Once at the top the road tuned to a dusty track again and we cruised on down to the beach.
Not a lot of change there although there was evidence of bungalows being built and what used to be a rustic little beach bar was being upgraded to a posh looking restaurant.
To be honest we were surprised it was only now being developed , 15 years on!

By now the temperature was hot- very hot and we had just one hour to get back to the pier to get the 3.30pm ferry.

So now the race was on, we retraced our steps and I was thankful for the indulgence of the Snickers bar I'd bought earlier. It gave me the burst of energy I really needed. ( The first chocolate I'd had since leaving home, I might add!)

We made it back with five minutes to spare only to find the ferry was delayed by 20 mins as it was waiting for passengers transfering from another ferry.

It had been a very tiring but rewarding day.
We learnt a lot about the changes to Phi Phi. Would I recommend this island to any one?

Most definitely yes!

It's been over developed and prices are higher than most of the Thai islands but it still has so much beauty as our photos will show, so don't forget to scroll right down to see all remaining pics.
I guarantee you'll fall in love. 💕.

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Photos

Phi Phi Ley coming into view
Happy to be on the move again.

Shock Horror.
Where there used to be little rustic bars there was now a McDonald's and a Burger king!

Long Beach. Phi Phi Island.
Most Thai islands have a " Long Beach"

Shark point
We used to swim to shark point from here and see shark early morning.
Too many boats these days , would be like crossing a highway

Comments

[Eugen Damon]

Thanks for sharing your experience with us!