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The separation in 1947 of British India into the Muslim state of Pakistan (with two sections West and East) and largely Hindu India was never satisfactorily resolved, and India and Pakistan have fought two wars - in 1947-48 and 1965 - over the disputed Kashmir territory. A third war between these countries in 1971 - in which India capitalized on Islamabad's marginalization of Bengalis in Pakistani politics - resulted in East Pakistan becoming the separate nation of Bangladesh. In response to Indian nuclear weapons testing, Pakistan conducted its own tests in 1998. The dispute over the state of Kashmir is ongoing, but recent discussions and confidence-building measures may be a start toward lessened tensions. To be updated

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By bedreddin
December 29th 2007

I'm Alive

 Asia » Pakistan » Lahore
I can't possibly email all of the (very few) people who may be curious as to my safety... but in case you care, I'm OK, I was in a restaurant when the stuff hit the fan, and we sat tight for a couple of hours (turned off the lights, shut the doors and pulled down the shutters).. then walked back to the hotel, where we stayed in on the 28th (when the entire city was shut down and you couldn't even find a taxi to take you to the border), and the situation was a bit better today although definitely not [View Full Entry]

bedreddin - Ozgur Can Leonard | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
126 Words | 13 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 29th 2007 | 678 Views | [diary=231286]


Islamabad is a very sad city today. After yesterday's assassination of ex-prime minister Benazir Bhutto, three days of national mourning have been declared, and everything is closed: the markets, the shops, the bazaars. There are no taxis, no form of public transport. An eerie silence has befallen the deserted streets. Occasionally, small groups of people cluster together by the roadside. They look dejected, defeated, angry. In the process of moving hotels earlier, I pass some road blocks; young people stand around street fires and debris. There have been violent riots on the streets of many P [View Full Entry]

Travelling Priestess - Tiziana Stupia | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1267 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 2 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 29th 2007 | 390 Views | [diary=231222]

Autumn leaves in Islamabad

I just received a text message from my friend Maddie in England, telling me that Benazir Bhutto has been killed about an hour ago in Rawalpindi - Islamabad's neighbouring city, a mere 15 km apart - in a suicide bomb attack. As my TV in the hotel doesn't work, I went down to reception, only to have these news confirmed by the ashen-faced receptionists. Everybody is standing around in silence, not quite knowing what to say or do. I'm feeling rather shocked. I was supposed to be in Rawalpindi this afternoon - I had planned to go to the bazaars in [View Full Entry]

Travelling Priestess - Tiziana Stupia | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
202 Words | 3 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 27th 2007 | 275 Views | [diary=230761]


It's Christmas Day in Islamabad. Actually, it isn't - it's the birthday of Pakistan's founder Mohammad Ali Jinnah, so there's a public holiday here, too. But I've been wished 'Merry Christmas' many times over today by well-meaning Pakistanis, who are very surprised when I tell them 'thank you very much, but I am not a Christian'. Earlier, when I had a picnic in the sunny Rose Garden, a young man approached me, handed me a beautiful pink rose and said 'Merry Christmas', before disappearing amongst the trees. Bless. I arrived back in Islamabad three days ago, and I have to say [View Full Entry]

Travelling Priestess - Tiziana Stupia | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1397 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 3 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 25th 2007 | 333 Views | [diary=230246]

Sacred Tree in Islamabad
Solstice greetings from Pakistan!

De maand december in Pakistan is een gekkenhuis aan huwelijken. Vrijwel iedereen die wil trouwen trouwt in December, ten eerste omdat het dan koel is, ten tweede omdat dan de familieleden uit het buitenland ook rond kersdagen vrij zijn en over kunnen komen, en ten derde omdat de komende 2 maanden in de moslimkalender heilig zijn en er dan dus niet getrouwd mag worden. Ik neem aan dat niet alle Pakistani's zo groots trouwen als het in Soph's kringen gewoon is, maar het is werkelijk ongelooflijk. Niets uitzonderlijks als de festiviteiten rondom het huwelijk een dag of 7-10 duren. Uiteraard kan [View Full Entry]

Veronique Lecluse - Veronique Lecluse | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
649 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 12 Photo(s) | 1 Video(s)
Published: December 25th 2007 | 285 Views | [diary=230210]

Eid lunch, nichten en tantes
Volle bussen op Eid
Bij Ali Adamjee op de bank

By old swat
December 25th 2007

South African interlude

 Asia » Pakistan » Islamabad
After a pleasant stay in South Africa where we found that, after almost three years, prices have rocketed, service provision has declined with power interruptions almost daily, and the black population has become more self-assured and therefore much easier to live with, we headed back to Pakistan. We left behind a country where deep divisions are created, politically, between a man who meant well but established an almost autocratic rule and another, who is favored by the masses notwithstanding being accused of gross corruption and rape. The latter, Zuma, will be head of the most powerful po [View Full Entry]

old swat - pieter vrolijk | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
409 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 2 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 25th 2007 | 105 Views | [diary=230226]

Happy me

Lunch met Dies in Negombo
Lunch met Dies in Negombo
Op tussenstop naar Pakistan
Wat een verschil met 1999! Toen met de auto, overland, via Iran en de Baluchistan woestijn. We hadden de auto vaarwel gezegd in Quetta, en waren uiteindelijk met de trein in Karachi aangekomen. Ik herinner me veel vuilnis, een broodje bruine saus, heel veel overgeven, vliegtuigspotten op het kerkhof en een bepaalde gele prullenbak bij het main train station. En nu: Op bezoek bij Sophie, waarmee ik in Sri 6 maanden mn huis op Maharamba Rd in Sri Lanka heb gedeeld. Oorspronkelijk was dit bezoek gepland omdat Soph zou gaan trouwen. Uitgehuwelijkt aan een neef uit Amerika. Hij bleek een ontze [View Full Entry]

Veronique Lecluse - Veronique Lecluse | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
678 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 30 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 21st 2007 | 213 Views | [diary=229215]

Verkeer en smog in Karachi
Wenkbrauwen bijwerken
Waar staan bij ons verbodsbordjes voor?

It's been a while since I last posted on this blog - this was due to being in the freezing Hindu Kush mountains, where internet access is sparse, if existent at all. We left for Chitral on 11th December, via propeller plane. Chitral is pretty cut off from the rest of Pakistan, as you can only get there by plane (which is frequently cancelled due to bad weather conditions) or over the Lowari Pass, which isn't really an option at this time of the year, due to snow. It's a lovely little town, and the people there are again completely different. [View Full Entry]

Travelling Priestess - Tiziana Stupia | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1092 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 8 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 25th 2007 | 653 Views | [diary=230256]

Kalasha girl
Dancing during the Chamos festival
Pensive Kalasha girl

By bedreddin
December 18th 2007

Thoughts from Peshawar

 Asia » Pakistan » Peshawar
The wine is a very light red. Like it's been diluted. It's reasonably strong, though. I had too much to drink last night, so I'm slowly sipping my single cup. Wali's brother is drinking with us and lets out a sigh of "Ya Alya". It was supposed to be Allah, but Pakistanis can't pronounce shit. Tonelessly blaring from religious cassette shops and carts, pre-pubescent voices screaming "Alya! Alya !".. It's disturbing and shameful. We're here to make our own gods tonight. Or goats. I'm not sure which they said. Possibly both. Humps of dough are handed out. Last year there was [View Full Entry]

bedreddin - Ozgur Can Leonard | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
2052 Words | 3 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 18th 2007 | 429 Views | [diary=228519]


I'm sitting in front of a fire blazing in a fireplace. Timber rafters, concrete floor, windows and a door that don't quite close, two beds covered with my junk. This is "my" room: the family's guest room. There were 15 people sleeping here before I got here. Now it seems like there's hardly room for another person without crowding. Sitting on a plastic chair next to me is Wali Khan, my landlord, wearing light blue shalwar kameez and a beige "chitrali" wool hat; he won't shave his week-old stubble until the first day of /chowmas/ when the neighbors will come with [View Full Entry]

bedreddin - Ozgur Can Leonard | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1378 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 0 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 11th 2007 | 390 Views | [diary=226731]