Blogs from Annapurna, Nepal, Asia - page 39

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Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 22nd 2007

I made a friend today. I didn't want to. Really, really didn't want to. But I wasn't given much of a choice in the matter. I had just finished having lunch with the Brits in the village of Larjung, but my tiny mushroom "pizza" wasn't enough to keep me going, so I popped into a store and bought a bag of sour cream and onion chips. I was shamelessly shoving the chips into my mouth when I met her. She was a skinny, scrawny little slip of a girl, maybe 10 or 11 years old. She was very hungry, she said. So of course I shared my chips with her. But that was all she was getting out of me. She didn't get the memo on that, though. She walked beside me, yabbering away in a ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 22nd 2007

just leting you know that i have been trekking around the himalayas for the last 11 days around the Annapurna Circuit. amazing. trekking through wonderful villages, stunning views, loving it! have now done the hardest parts of the trekking, the most challenging was yesterday (5416m over the thorung pass) & it felt great doing it! cant believe i found internet here, but anyway, just so you dont worry about me not getting in touch...expect no contact for the next 1-2weeks too as im still trekking & dont want it to end!!!! more details to follow later!! ... read more

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 21st 2007

Everything was calm when we started our hike. Well, aside from the fact that Claire and Sim stubbornly tried to get off the road and took an obscure trail on the opposite side of the river. Not me. Since this river bed was enormous, maybe a good mile at its widest, I only saw them as two little dots for most of the morning. It was amusing, and a little worrying, watching as they ran out of trail halfway across the face of a rock cliff, or made an attempt to ford the river to get back on a real trail. Ultimately, they just kept walking on the rocky river bed, maybe not the most comfortable place to walk, but at least it was safe. My route wasn't perfect, however. Also following a trail right on ... read more
The Kali Gandaki river

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 20th 2007

I woke up to a real problem. My nose was sunburned. Badly sunburned. The whole thing was covered in blisters, which all seemed to burst the second I woke up. My nose was one big mass of red, sore, pussy broken blisters. It was not good. I kicked myself for not being more careful. I had coated my face with No. 30 sunblock early in the day yesterday, and thought that one application was enough. But since I kept stopping every 10 minutes to blow my nose, I figure I wiped it all off fairly quickly. High altitude, in the snow, is not where you want to expose any of your skin to the sun. Claire and Sim thought it was sort of funny, since my "tan line" made a funny mark across my face. I ... read more
Taking the plunge
Working in the fields
New landscape

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 19th 2007

The porters started to stir around 3 a.m. So did we. Apparently, Claire and Sim didn't sleep at all. I didn't feel like I had gotten much sleep, either, and said so. They were incredulous. "You were snoring for hours!" they said. Oops. All of us felt like crap, though the lack of sleep was only partly to blame. The altitude was starting to give us headaches and making us feel yucky. None of us had any real worrisome symptoms, like dizziness or nausea, so our plan to go up the high pass was a go. Since they hadn't slept, Claire and Sim decided to find a room being vacated by the trekkers now starting to filter into the dining room. They wanted to take a nap, and also give me a head start because we ... read more
Greeting the day
On the way up
In the mountains

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 18th 2007

I can hike very slowly. Very, very slowly. But I have never hiked as slow as I hiked today. Knowing I would be slow, due to a lot of uphill in our path, Claire and Sim zipped off and left me to go at my own pace. We made plans to meet up in a village called Yak Kharka, where we would make sure everyone was free of the symptoms of altitude sickness before hiking on. Our ultimate destination today was a place called Thorung Phedi, the last stop before going over the high pass, Thorung La. We had to get there in order to do the high pass on schedule -- it would cost us a day if we stopped short of Thorung Phedi. But just getting to Yak Kharka was slooooow going. The altitude ... read more
Yak
Gangapurna

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 17th 2007

A little snowstorm on a mountain trek is a good thing, or so we discovered this morning when we looked out our windows. The mountains and hills around us were covered in a fresh layer of snow, making the scenery so much prettier and more dramatic than it would have been without the snow. The sun was shining, and the sky was a crisp, clear deep blue. It was a good day for a hike along the base of Annapurna III, at 7,555 meters high, one of the "big ones" we had come here to see. We were not disappointed. The views were simply amazing, the best we had experienced so far. It was a short walk to our lunch-time destination, Manang, one of the larger stops on the trail and the place where most trekkers ... read more
An amazing view
Claire and the kids
The movie theater

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 15th 2007

Our maps aren't the best trail maps ever, but they do have very informative -- and entertaining -- notes about the terrain we are hiking through. Some note that there are "acres of marijuana," while others warn of a "steep descent." Today's hike had this promising note: "Peaceful Forest." However, before we could get there, we had to make our way along something not so peaceful, something pretty nasty: a road. It's not actually a real road yet, only a stretch of road under construction. A road no motor vehicles can drive on, since there's no way to get any vehicles up here, at least not yet. But it was a road nonetheless, blown out of the mountainside. Claire, who, if you remember, has hiked this circuit before, pointed out where the trail used to go. ... read more
Swargadwari Danda
My dinner

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 14th 2007

As we pulled out of our hotel in the morning, the woman who owned the place bade Claire a warm goodbye. Claire had stayed in the same place when she hiked this trek seven years ago, and though I'm not sure the woman remembered her, she did appreciate having a "regular" customer. I imagine those are hard to come by in these parts. Before we left, the woman picked a marigold from her garden, and handed it to Claire, who secured it to her camera bag. Setting off for the day's hike, we looked up and noticed that there was snow some of the mountain peaks above us. We hadn't yet hit the really big mountains, and were surprised to see snow already. For me, it meant we were getting closer and making progress... As the ... read more
A heavy load

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna October 13th 2007

I woke up feeling a little better, having lost that fluey, sick as a dog feeling that tries to force your eyelids closed. But I was still hacking up great gobs of phlegm and pulling out boogers blackened, I'm assuming, from all the pollution I had breathed in on the bus trip from Kathmandu. As we listened to a local man coughing, clearing his throat in the most grotesque way, then spitting (a common sound here in Nepal, and throughout Asia, according to Claire and Sim), we came to a realization: I just had the same illness that everyone else here has! All the children have runny noses, and all the adults are coughing away. This country is one big respiratory illness. Today I was able to hike without too much trouble, though it was still ... read more
Another one
Nepali woman




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