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Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 16th 2012

After far too few hours sleep I woke up and frantically finished packing my bags all the while thinking why on earth did I leave this rather important task until moments before I was due to depart for my trek. My guide turned up at the hotel 30 mins early which left me with even less time to pack and to say goodbye to Sonia, who was by now the only other remaining Dragomite. I said a sad and rather rushed goodbye to Sonia before jumping in the Toyota Hiace that would transport me to foothills of the Annapurnas and the start point of my 20 day trek around the range. On the way out of the city we picked up a very nice English couple from Yorkshire who were trekking the same route but were ... read more
Besisahar 2
The route between Besisihar and Syange
Elevation map of the circuit

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 16th 2012

After a fabulous sleep I start the day with a local speciality, Tsampa porridge. Made from barley, sugar, water and a little milk it is brown in colour and thick and smooth in texture. When it is placed in front of me I think good god what have I done, this large bowl of thick, brown gunk does not appear to have been a good choice. However, on further inspection things start to look up. It smells good, a little like peanut butter and it’s cement like texture is somehow reassuring. When I come to finally tasting it I realise that my initial fears were misplaced, it tastes good, really good in fact! Sweet, a little nutty, thick yet perfectly smooth, it makes for a very satisfying breakfast and blows boring oat porridge well out of ... read more
Marsyangdi Nadi river
Donkey caravan
Marsyangdi Nadi river and the trail

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 14th 2012

Segunda parte del Trekking (circuito Annapurnas): Una de las etapas mas bonita del trek es la de Upper Pisang 3310 m., la subida fue brutal, casi escalando con las manos de la pendiente tan fuerte durante 2 horas. Es un pueblo medieval tibetano muy autentico, situado en la ladera de la montaña y desde aquí el Annapurna II se ve tan cerca, que parece que se puede tocar. La ruta alta desde Upper Pisang a Manang es la mas recomendable por las vistas que se obtienen de todas las montañas: Annapurna II (7.937m), Annapurna III (7.555m), Annapurna IV (7.525m), Gangapurna (7.455m), PisangPeak (6.091m). Tras 9 horas de caminata, llegamos a Manang (3.540m),... read more
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P1040023
P1040037

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 2nd 2012

I have already trekked for 10 days and have returned to civilization. I have had my massage and my pedicure to recover from what was one of the most beautiful and relaxing yet most physically challenging treks I’ve ever undertaken. The trek started from a familiar place, Pokhara where I’d already been with my first trip from Delhi to Kathmandu. It was another opportunity to see the spectacular views of the Himalayan chain of mountains to the north. I was already quite familiar with all of the really good restaurants (meaning places that served juicy steaks) and great free Wi-Fi cafes that made wicked macchiatos. The trek actually began with a short flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara. From Pokhara we drove to our starting point at Nayapul. The drive was so beautiful and serene as we ... read more
Kopra Ridge-Dhaulagiri in the background
A unicorn?
A Tibetan couple relax

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit April 2nd 2012

Time for some trekking! Well, after some breakfast and some driving. Woke up at 6AM after a terrible night's sleep. Dog barking. Super hard bed. Hard pillow. Had a nice breakfast of hard boiled eggs and muesli and yogurt (called curd in Nepal). Perfect breakfast before a 4 hour trek on the Annapurna Circuit. A short circuit. There is a big circuit that takes over 2 weeks to complete. We were doing a short one that takes just 4-5 days to complete. We piled in the tiny taxi, the five of us, and first went to the village of Naya Pul where our trek would begin. After a trip to the toilet, we were on our way. We were trekking as far as Tikhedhunga today, just a 4 hour walk. In Naya Pul we got our ... read more
Photo 3
Metal Bridge
Photo 5

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 26th 2012

So, today we begin in the usual manner- 2 porridge and 1 apple pancake for 3. We say goodbye to our best Bavarian friends (actually our only Bavarian friends) and Kushang Sherpa. It is a constant in travel, I think, that friendships are accelerated because you have such a limited time to develop them, I hope we meet Dani and Michael again one day- who knows maybe on a Langtang Trek, maybe Europe, maybe even Perth (maybe not Perth- it is very far away from the rest of the world)? Mary, Stephane, Dhana and I decide to spend a couple of hours exploring Kagbeni, we weave through the ancient streets, under buildings and through backyards. Lots of little cows, chooks and dogs. The air is still this morning. I really love the feel of the place, ... read more
Kagbeni
Kagbeni
Kagbeni Wildlife

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 25th 2012

Ultimately a great sleep after yesterday's huge day. We plan to explore Muktinath this morning and head on to Kagbeni (2800m) this afternoon as it is a relatively short downhill walk. I am eager to explore the Hindu and Buddhist sacred sites of The Muktinath Temple. We retrace our steps from yesterday through the town - we see our German med student friends from Yak Kharka and the Danish couple from Manang. Everyone is looking squeaky clean and relaxed. We head up the hill, passing back through the kani entrance to the village, there are lots of stalls set up selling religious medals, necklaces, ribbons and strings. Moving along... we walk along the track and up the steps. It is really busy with Indian and local pilgrims. Those that can't walk up the hill get aride ... read more
Muktinath Town
Muktinath Town
Muktinath

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 24th 2012

Rise and shine in the dark - it's 0350. Pack up last few items; having slept in my clothes there's not too much to stuff in. Apparel du jour - long johns, 2 x socks, trek pants, wool singlet, wool long sleeve thermal, wool 360 degree Kathmandu top, down jacket, fleece hat, scarf, gloves, headlamp (all matching- gotta think of the photos!). Nervous but excited, choke down some breaky and off we go. It is so exciting heading up the hill in the dark, the headlight beams criss cross the path ahead and behind me. I am concentrating on the boots in front of me illuminated by torchlight. The wind is up and it is really cold (but exciting). Trudging forward we stop intermittently for everyone to catch up, the sky changes and that pre-dawn colour ... read more
Leaving Thorung Phedi
Looking back in Thorung Phedi direction
Approaching High Camp

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 24th 2012

Salimos a las 10am de Tatopani en un jeep que compartimos con otros extranjeros con destino a Ghasa, a mitad de camino el jeep se accidentó y tuvimos que hacer una parada forzada mientras reparaban el vehículo luego de lo cual el chofer se sentó tranquilamente a tomarse un té; al cabo de un poco más de media hora retomamos el camino y como a las 12:30 llegamos a Ghasa en donde almorzamos y tomamos un autobús a Pokhara casi a las 2 de la tarde, era un bus viejo y destartalado pero comparado con los otros medios de transporte que habíamos usado en los últimos días parecía un lujo viajar ahí, y hasta era posible dormir. Llegamos a Pokhara como a las 6pm, nos dispersamos cada quien en un hotel distinto (los demás fueron a ... read more
hasta que se nos ocurrió jugar cartas para pasar el rato
el jeep
el jeep

Asia » Nepal » Annapurna » Annapurna Circuit March 23rd 2012

Desayuno a las 8am, ya me sentía mucho mejor. Caminamos un rato por el pueblo y fuimos a un monasterio budista en donde pudimos presenciar parte de una ceremonia que hacen cuando alguien muere, fue muy bonita, estaban sólo los monjes y el señor que había solicitado la ceremonia y nos invitaron a sentarnos dentro del lugar donde hacían la ceremonia (en donde oran y tienen el altar) y hasta nos dieron té tibetano (té + leche + sal + mantequilla), un poquito difícil de tragar aunque el sabor no era del todo desagradable. A medio día agarramos un minibús a Ghasa, nos tocaron los asientos del final y como la vía es una precaria carretera de tierra nos pasamos las 3 horas que duró el viaje brincando todo, corrijo: TODO, el tiempo, que si no ... read more
vista desde el monasterio
ceremonia
ofrendas




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