Blogs from Osh, Kyrgyzstan, Asia


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EdVallance
August 12th 2010

After the June's Uzbek / Kyrgyz ethnic clashes that may have left over 2,000 dead I was somewhat wary of visiting the city of Osh. Stories of burnings, torture, rape and indescribably gruesome killings abounded throughout the rest of Kyrgyzstan where many people believed the war in Osh to be still continuing. But, reading and listening to the news, the actual situation seemed to be back to normal: there had been no disturbances in two months, the city was gradually being rebuilt and the extra armed forces that had been put in place to get the situation under control had finally been moved out. Osh being the only way I could continue south into Tajikistan, I made an informed decision to go there and leave on the first southbound transport available. "Where's the bazaar?" I ask ... read more




23rd Day, Last Day in Osh

Published: September 28th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 28th 2009

Day 24, July 19, 2009, Sunday, Jekshembi: So, the schedule did get worked out and we bought a ticket on Kyrgyz Airline to return me to Bishkek today. That meant that most of yesterday was full of goodbyes including a visit in the late afternoon to the home of Amariam for an afternoon meal including a sheep's head. Amariam and I talked about what it takes to get accepted at an American University. She is preparing to take the TOEFL here and the SAT exam as she graduates. Her English is very good, with only an occasional difficulty. She would like to work in an business where her abilities as a translator would be useful. In addition to the sheep's head, the meal consisted of a rib for each of us, a salad called mother's tongue ... read more




Day 22, Swimming in Osh

Published: September 28th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 28th 2009

Day 22, July 17, 2009, Friday, Juma: Three weeks in Kyrgyzstan and I never really know what is coming next. I am now told that Colonel Nurmatov as some plans for us to see the country, especially some fine natural spots, with water. That may or may not delay the return to Bishkek. Late yesterday I was told that Gulnara, who is the boss, after all, wanted me to go to Kyzylkia to see the grandparents at the village. Then I was to fly back to Bishkek on Sunday. We will see just how far that gets. I keep saying that if we are going to buy an airline ticket we need to go to an airline office. But no one every has a sense of urgency about anything here. While it is charming, it is ... read more




Day 21, July 16, 2009, Thursday, Beishembi

Published: September 25th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 25th 2009

Day 21, July 16, 2009, Thursday, Beishembi: I got home about 10 pm from yesterday's adventure into the heart of Southern Kyrgyzstan and the village of Aidarken. I was exhausted from the travel and the experiences and went straight to bed after unloading a bag full of goodies from the afternoon-long-into-the-sunset-dinner at the home of Faruh's wife's family. Travel to Aidarken was with Faruh's brother-in-law and his wife and baby, Mustafa. Faruh's brother-in-law studied theology for 10 years at Al-Azhar in Cairo and he works in the foundation that represents the ideas of Fetullah Gullen in Kyrgyzstan. Given the large number of phone calls during the day, I would say that he is in a fairly important position with the Young foundation. There are offices in Bishkek and in Osh that have been pointed out to ... read more




Day 20, Waiting to Travel

Published: September 22nd 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 22nd 2009

Day 20, July 15, 2009, Wednesday, Sharshembi: I awoke a little late again this morning. It affects getting any writing done or any reflection. It is one of the difficulties when one is doing home stays. Getting some time alone to write was easier in Bishkek because everybody slept until at least 8 or 9 am and they left me alone. Here in Osh, the family actually keeps normal hours and are up by 7:30 am or by 8 at the latest and wants to feed me, or have a conversation. Marat is watching the part of “I Am Legend,” the Will Smith film, that we did not see yesterday before we went to his Great Aunt's house. I am having some coffee before heading off to some other village experience with the brother-in-law of Faruh. ... read more






Day 19, In the Southern City Of Osh

Published: September 21st 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 21st 2009

Day 19, July 14, 2009, Tuesday, Sheishembi: The day yesterday was interesting, Marat woke me about 6 am as planned and told me that I should have breakfast and we would head out to climb the stairs of the mountain to a Museum in a cave at the top of Soloman's Throne, or Suleman's Throne. The rock is a promontory of jagged mountain that dominates the Osh skyline. It sits more or less in the center of the city. From the observation area about half-way up you can look out over all of the city of Osh. Last year when I was here in late July, I was unable to climb the steps due to being even more overweight than I am now, and the fact that the temperature had hit 104 degrees and it was ... read more




20th Day, Osh and more

Published: September 21st 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 21st 2009

Day 20, July 15, 2009, Wednesday, Sharshembi: I awoke a little late again this morning. It affects getting any writing done or any reflection. It is one of the difficulties when one is doing home stays. Getting some time alone to write was easier in Bishkek because everybody slept until at least 8 or 9 am and they left me alone. Here in Osh, the family actually keeps normal hours and are up by 7:30 am or by 8 at the latest and wants to feed me, or have a conversation. Marat is watching the part of “I Am Legend,” the Will Smith film, that we did not see yesterday before we went to his Great Aunt's house. I am having some coffee before heading off to some other village experience with the brother-in-law of Faruh. ... read more




Day 18, First Day in Osh

Published: September 19th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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calpreece
September 19th 2009

Day 18, July 13, 2009, Monday, Duishombu: The day has begun in Osh with the sound of “Allah Ahkbar” issuing from the minarets of the local mosques. It is was unusual to hear the sound at a little before 5 am this morning, since I have not heard it once in Bishkek or in Lake Issy-Kul. And there was something comforting about hearing the call to prayer in a country that while run by a secular government, is predominately Islamic in its belief structures. The day promises to be one of other surprises and revelations, I am sure. I have been to Osh twice before, but on the typical run and shoot visit that marks much of my travels with Emil. We would whisk into town on our way to another destination, manage a meal, pickup ... read more




Arslanbob

Published: May 4th 2009Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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thedribbleman
April 28th 2009

Donkeys screeching, sheep baaaing, cows mooing, dogs barking, ducks quaking. These are not the sounds that bring skiing to mind. And only 3 years ago, here skiing was unheard of. If you ski here in the next few years you could be classed as a pioneer. I was the 25th person this year and one of the first 50 people ever in the history of the world to ski the mountains off Arslanbob. 4 hours from Osh after a series of shared taxis it is a place that is known locally as a pilgrimage. It is said that the Prophet Mohammed charged a modest gardener to find paradise on earth. When it was found the Prophet gave him fruit and nut seeds to plant around the mountaintops. Now, Arslanbob has the largest walnut grove in the ... read more




Up, down, all around!

Published: September 12th 2008Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Osh
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meghanvesey
September 12th 2008

Yes, for anyone who is wondering, we are still alive. Lack of internet cafe's and lack of patience on dial-up connections has contributed to our long silence! We have been in Kyrgyzstan since August 27th. It's a beautiful country with lots of mountains and fresh air. The country is not heavily populated and doesn't have big cities so we've been camping quite a bit. Pictures are not working for us right now... The application will not load properly. Maybe later we'll be able to upload some files... Tomorrow we leave for Uzbekistan. Another adventure! Here are some of the things we have been up to: Our first wedding anniversary... September 1st was our first wedding anniversary! For those dying to know how we celebrated, it was not in a fancy hotel with clean clothes. ;-) On ... read more









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