I'm in Rantepao (pronounced RANCH-eh-poh) on the island of Sulawesi. It's a small town in an area called Tana Toraja, the local people known as Torajans. I'm here to see a funeral, accompanied by my guide, Arun. He's 25, smiling and cheerful and he feeds me a tremendous amount of information. Can't remember it all, but here are the basics. Someone has died and his spirit wanders the earth. Torajans sacrifice animals so these spirits can accompany the person's soul to the afterlife. Human souls can't go without animal souls to accompany them. Buffalo, pigs and deer are sacrificed for this,
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