Today Brian and I have booked a full day tour to the Senaru waterfalls, which are in the foothills of Mount Rinjani about a two hour drive north of the resort. Our guide introduces himself as Ifan. We head north along the main road around the island. It might be the main road, but that doesn’t mean that it’s not very narrow. It is nominally two lanes, but we need to pull off the bitumen whenever a truck comes the other way. We share the road with an endless stream of motorbikes, as well as stray goats, chickens, dogs and the odd cow. I don’t think it would be good if we ran into a cow, and based on what we’ve seen so far we suspect that the average life span of a dog that lives
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