The drive from the Jakarta International Airport to the neighbouring city of Bogor was a little like wading through soup; hot, humid and smoggy enough to completely cloak the outline of Jakarta in a dense fog. After a couple hours in gridlocked traffic, we arrived in Bogor, Western Java, at the offices of the Center for Indonesian Veterinary Analytical Studies (CIVAS). The office consisted of a converted house in suburban Bogor and would serve as our home for the next two weeks. The people at CIVAS, which is the only veterinary NGO based in Indonesia, were extremely hospitable host and made
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