I've never found a city that is quite as nonchalant about the history that surrounds it. It makes for stunning contrasts. Right next to the most hectic market - or, to be accurate, series of markets, one bleeding into the other - is a huge, six hundred year old fort that is big enough to be called a town in less laid-back countries. In fact, for a country as in-your-face as India, it has a damn good line in understatement - "Hill Station": three hours drive up a mountain road. That's just not a hill. Similarly, to me, a fort is a military building that's bigger than a bunker, but not quite ready to be a castle. In Delhi, it's somewhere with 30 foot high walls, big enough to fit not one but four palaces, barracks,
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