Gone were the winding mountain passes that have characterized our trip thus far… No more of the friendly roadside dhabbas our road trip became hideous, irrepressible heat, dust storms, motorway services, blaring horns, drunken guest house owners, more heat and an abundance of traffic… to say that initially we missed the mountains would be an understatement… It is just more peaceful up there… Chandigarh was our first stop… As soon as we were out of the mountains the heat was intense, the Grand Trunk road became a three lane motorway and the trucks, buses an [View Full Entry]

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After five long days of feeding our growing TV addiction we braved the road to Shimla. The distance was further than we had ever tried and we were harbouring some doubts as to whether she would make it. Fortunately the doubts were unfounded and she performed remarkably well, she did seize a few (4) times. Yet she also started and made it up a hill without even being turned on!! Chris’ magic touch… We arrived in Shimla and discovered that this pretty hill station was just beginning its annual Shimla Festival. We found a room at vastly inflated prices and settled [View Full Entry]

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Getting up early is not something Katie is ever in favour of yet she woke this bright promise filled morning singing sweetly in tune to the frolicsome birdies as Chris whistled along to the merry tune. We packed our bags and waved at the congregated village children, who where enamoured by our sweet, sweet music and as we drove out of town we waved as the villagers wiped their eyes sorry to see us leaving… Ahh, we would all like to live in fantasy and that has got to be the biggest pile of shite we have ever told (well one [View Full Entry]

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Leaving Recong with old Poulet laden down and our fingers tightly crossed we headed off to Nako. A small village nestled in amongst the mountains on the Spiti trail. The next feasible stop for us. Poulet, performed admirably at first. The temperature was exceedingly hot that day but initially the road was following the river and thus quite level. A few patches washed out by glacier thaw but all pretty manageable. Further on the road were diverted up a steep sand path… we had some trouble making up with Katie having to push as the bike struggled for traction… reaching the [View Full Entry]

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To travel into Spiti requires an ‘Inner Line Permit’ available at Recong Peo… So after the soldiers had push started our way out of Chitkul we headed there... We arrived in Recong 7 hours later with Poulet ailing and us exasperated at the stalling, the pushing, the fucking bike!! We immediately took her to the doctors… The guitar on the back caused a great deal of attention and a couple of ‘music teachers’ strolled up and engaged Chris in a conversation… difficult to have two conversations in pigeon English at once, but with Lucky the mechanic discu [View Full Entry]

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We set off from Sarahan early, filled up the tank and headed up the road toward Spiti. Next stop Chitkul. Before leaving Chris had vowed never to get as cold as he had been again so a quick stop at the market and 50 rupees later he had a rather fetching pair of long johns… my how we (Katie) laughed! At first the road was lovely, winding graceful curves cut into the sides of sheer cliffs. Overhanging ledges providing some cover from the light rain. Sheltering under one of these overhangs we bumped into Ingmar and Des, on their way back [View Full Entry]

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From Mandi back up the Kullu valley and across the Beas took us toward the Jalori Pass - a steep climb to 3222m… The ride was Poulets first real test… Vertical, dirt roads, landslides in places, rain and loaded to the gunnels with us and our luggage… It was a hairy ride, we stopped at one point to hide from the thunder storm in an abandoned camp, put on ALL of our clothes (it got fucking cold!) ate ALL of our provisions (biscuits) after Katies scare mongering tactics (“We might get cut off!”) Chris made pathetic attempts to get us water [View Full Entry]

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Manali, Manali……… exchanging a few emails with Miranda and Simeon took us to Manali, a place that we had not planned on visiting… we left the haven of Jari early and hit the road again. Back through the Kullu Valley and alongside the spectacular River Beas… We arrived in Manali early afternoon quite pleased with our time and looking for something to eat; we took the road to Old Manali and things started to go wrong!!! We drove into the back of a car (nothing major at all) whose driver decided to slam on the anchors, no warning, he was apologetic, [View Full Entry]

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Ten hours in the saddle, the wind in our hair, the flies in our sun cream, the rain on the mountain tops, the dhabbas (cafes) at the side of the road, the tunnel under the mountain, the collapsed roads and our first taste of single track mountain riding….. BLISS…. We arrived in Jari, dirty, tired, hungry and very, very happy…. The roads were incredible, and the reality of what having a bike in India would mean dawned on us…the open road stretching before us… we could go anywhere (bike allowing)… the roads are sometimes rough and tremendously diffi [View Full Entry]

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On our way to Dharamshala we had a stopover at the boarder town, Jammu. It was the oddest experience of our trip to date! We arrived at the bus station, travel worn and in good spirits with an English couple we met on the boat. Everything was at first typical, we were obviously attracting attention but we thought no more than usual. Until we sat down and were instantly surrounded by a throng of on lookers, encircling us at arms reach. An unnerving experience made more unnerving by our police guard! The other couple was slightly more perturbed and we weren’t [View Full Entry]

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