Blogs from Kerala, India, Asia - page 5

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Asia » India » Kerala December 15th 2018

Unnikrishnan didn’t want to just preserve his family’s ancestral home in the village of Painkulam, Kerala. He also wanted to offer an authentic and traditional place that Kerala families could use for family functions and reunions. “They’re going to hotels and modern places these days, instead of doing what they traditionally did—gather in the family home.” So with that in mind, and with his background in construction, he tackled the challenge of renovating the home, a 150-year-old structure not lived in full time since 1960. The result is remarkable. Gleaming red laterite stone walls are trimmed with wooden door and window frames and carved wooden panels. Teak columns salvaged from the house interior and concrete columns that look like wood support a long veranda. The third story roof, formerly a low attic that helped insulate the ... read more
Unnikrishnan stands by the Tulasi planter box
View through decorative wood elements on third floor to river.
Beautiful painting of reclining Vishnu on the veranda

Asia » India » Kerala » Trichur December 11th 2018

Maybe it was the slug on the bathroom floor. Or perhaps it was the dog with no name. Whichever, I’m quite sure now I’m in India. “That’s terrible!” I cried to the dog’s master, Mr. V, who was taking me around his small village of Painkulam in Kerala. She was so faithful, protecting him from danger (he said HE was protecting HER, but I know better.) She wanted pets and came to me to say hello, but he chastised her, saying, “no touch.” I longed to pet her brown head with sleepy eyes, but Mr. V was now protecting me from dog with no name. He introduced me to half a dozen people in the village—all very friendly and curious about my presence here. I met one 86-year-old grandma as she sat on her porch, reciting ... read more
Shiva painting on the Painkulam temple
priest opens door to inner sanctum of village Shiva temple
riverside Shiva temple

Asia » India » Kerala November 23rd 2018

Today is the day after Thanksgiving. We taught Dennis, our program director, about this US holiday, and he thought it was good to have a special day for offering a general thanks, but to whom? For what, exactly? People from India do not understand what Thanksgiving means for most, or many, Americans, but then we do not understand many of their holidays either. One thoughtless woman toasted, "Happy turkey day!" which demeans this lovely holiday completely. Gratitude should be the main theme, the focus of this day. This is our second day on the Spice Luxury Cruises houseboats. There are three boats reserved for our group: the Tamarind, the Pepper, and the Fennel. The boats are all built similarly, made of bamboo, and all have thatched roofs. The Tamarind has four rooms, the Pepper has two, ... read more

Asia » India » Kerala » Kochi August 12th 2018

It was very peaceful on the houseboat in Alleppey and we slept very well in the air conditioned room, in our sleeping bag liners under our mosquito net (the sheets were a little dubious...). Unfortunately there had been more rain overnight and the water level had risen noticeably. We were pleased to be leaving the area today. Breakfast was amazing. Chef had made us sweet coconut dosa, fresh pineapple, toast and traditional igli. We sailed back to the mainland for a 9am finish. We were picked up by our tuk tuk driver and taken to Cochi (our original plan had been a bus or train but being a Sunday there weren’t any running at the right time). The advantage of this method of transport was that we went along the coastal road as oppose to the ... read more
Chinese fishing nets
Cochi - street goats
Chinese fishing nets

Asia » India » Kerala » Alleppey August 11th 2018

After a local breakfast of dosa we checked out of our room early and headed off with our tuk tuk driver. This drive was even more ridiculous than yesterday’s - he met a man on a motorbike we had to follow down narrow dirt tracks to the point we had to get out and walk! Fortunately we soon came across the water and after climbing through other houseboats we reached ours. She was perfect in our eyes - clean and tidy. A lovely sitting and dining area at the front, an upstairs with seats and matts to lie on, and a small double bedroom with reasonable sheets and a bathroom that was passable as long as you didn’t look too closely or try and have a shower... We set off on our cruise just before midday. ... read more
Alleppey backwaters cruise
Alleppey backwaters cruise
Alleppey backwaters cruise

Asia » India » Kerala » Alleppey August 10th 2018

Having spent an extra unscheduled day in Munnar due to the heavy rain fall we weren’t optimistic about getting out to Alleppey today either. We had another night of thunder storms and heavy torrential rain. The news reports in the morning were of further land slips, new dams having to open, red flood warnings in Alleppey and Kochin and of the US embassy telling its tourists to avoid Kerala completely. Despite this, and much to our surprise our taxi managed to get to us first thing in the morning. We decided being out of the area worst affected by land slides was probably a good thing, although going to an area below sea level didn’t seem the most sensible idea... Almost as soon as we left the hotel we saw our first signs of the issues ... read more
Alleppey
Alleppey lighthouse
road out of Munnar

Asia » India » Kerala » Munnar August 9th 2018

We should currently be moored up on a house boat somewhere near Alleppey, enjoying a romantic evening meal cooked by our private chef under moonlit skies.... Instead we remain where we have been all day. Our room at the Blackberry Hills Resort outside Munnar. The taxi was supposed to pick us up at 830am. Unfortunately due to land slips on the road out of the hotel and between Munnar and Alleppey he was unable to get to us, or to get to Alleppey. We were initially hopeful that the highways would be promptly cleared but as an hour or 2 turned into 2pm and then maybe 4pm we soon lost hope. It gets dark around 6ish here and the drive is a 4-5hr one. Given there were further landslips during the course of the day the ... read more
My red bangles

Asia » India » Kerala » Munnar August 8th 2018

So the rain hasn’t stopped, or paused, or lightened since yesterday. This means that the paths through the estate are now streams and you cannot walk anywhere without getting very wet. I described the rain yesterday as torrential, it was, today I discovered that it can rain much harder than that. I’m not even sure I can think of an adjective to describe it.... Last night we discovered our first little travel fail. We meant to wash our clothes at the hotel before we move on to Alleppey. Turns out they only pick up clothes before 5pm and return them the next evening, I.e. we had missed the boat. we, therefore, spent this morning washing our clothes in the bath using the rather nice hand made scented bar soap provided by the hotel (we have yet ... read more
Nilgiri Tahr - Eravikulam National park
Eravikulam National Park
Munnar

Asia » India » Kerala » Munnar August 7th 2018

Monsoon is back. After being very lucky with the weather the past couple of days the rain returned yesterday evening and hasn’t stopped since. Now we were warned about monsoon but I rather naively thought that meant short sharp showers in the relative warmth. Instead we have had continuous torrential rain with brief interludes of light rain. And it’s cold! Aware of the poor forecast for the morning we decided to have a late breakfast. Our usually stunning views consisted of a white out as we were quite literally sitting in the clouds. We decided a visit to the tea museum was a perfect wet weather activity. We meandered out of our hotel into the tiny hamlet at the top of the drive. There were lots of smart taxis for residents of the expensive local hotels ... read more
BlackBerry Hills - morning view
first tuktuk!
tea museum

Asia » India » Kerala » Munnar August 6th 2018

Today we woke up far too early due to the noise of a very violent monsoon shower. This relatively small amount of rain was enough to put me off getting up early for the 7am yoga class provided by the hotel every morning on the terrace. We quickly went back to sleep to wake to beautiful sunshine and a more reasonable hour. I maintain I’ll do a class before we leave, Stephen is convinced I won’t. Breakfast was the first challenge of the day - having been put off spices by an insanely hot cauliflower the night before I was pleased to be able to enjoy eggs on toast and banana fritters. This was accompanied by delicious black tea. Again, having discovered the milk version the day before is undrinkable. We were picked up by our ... read more
Muttupetty dam
Top Station
Muttupetty dam




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