In Kochi we had booked a stay at the Pachyderm Palace (sounds promising, doesn’t it?) Actually, it was the most expensive night so far, 1750 rupees compared to the usual 400, but it was full board and we had practically no alternative. Still, it was much cheaper than the better-known Nagarhole National Park, where the lodges really cost a fortune. In fact, Tholpetty is adjacent to the Nagarhole National Park, situated at its southeastern borders. We decided to travel there by our own means, a bit more complicated but much cheaper than arrangements by the Tourist Board. We did the distance in two parts, it might have been possible in one. First we took a bus to Khozikode (former Calicut, the place where Vasco da Gama landed). The city is of hardly any touristy interest, we
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