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Published: October 19th 2006
Well, I'm really writing this in late 2006 even though my trip was made something like 8 years ago, but I'll do my best to recall. Also, there was no digicam for me then, so there won't be any photos to share on this. What I will be doing however, is listing down (rather for my own future reference, heh) the sites that I'd wanted to visit but did not get to. This will be later on in the entry though.
I was actually a chaperone on this trip to my maternal grandparents, which was why I was even invited in the first place. Having never been to China before, I thought it would be quite fun.
The five-hour flight from Sg to
Xiamen on China Airlines was one of the most uncomfortable flights I've ever taken, even in retrospect, and the food was without a doubt the worst (and I'm generally quite a fan of airline meals). Upon arrival, we were met with relatives I'd never heard of, much less seen, in my whole life. With eager exchanges of smiles and courteous introductions, we were whisked off in a van to our destination. I just didn't know that was to be four hours away, past desolate towns and long winding roads clinging precariously up and down the sides of tall mountains. Admittedly, that bit of the ride was rather enjoyable simply because it was so scenic with all the sky-reaching trees and their deep green crowns, hovering over plunging valleys. Still, I was lucky not to have been motion-sick and I do appreciate the relatives' efforts to bear the ordeal of a double journey just to receive us at the airport.
I'm not even sure how we were related to the host family anymore but they were very generous and obliging. What I remembered most about them was how they plied us with food - I ate four times a day, three of which meals comprised between 8-10 dishes the likes of pork skin in some rich gravy, stir-fried bamboo shoots (which I took a liking to), roast duck and all manner of very rich food, many foreign to me. Supper served at nearly midnight would be a massive bowl of noodles, delicious but deadly to my digestive tract. I swear I went home 5kg heavier after my fortnight there.
Whilst we were there, a traveling zoo passed the village and we hotfooted it to join in the buzz. There was a makeshift shelter maybe about 10m long and 5m wide. Both sides were lined with cages and in these, we saw a tiger, some snakes and a few more species. The locals were very excited and the sight struck a few chords with me. For one, hearing my relative exclaim in delight at seeing a live tiger for the first time made me realise how much for granted I'd taken the zoo in my country, where it is a sprawling estate with all kinds of animals. For another, it hurt to see the poor animals confined in such appalling and unnatural conditions. I couldn't stay long.
We also visited the local skating rink, the centre of recreational activity, where neon lights flashed in no discernible rhythm to loud music. For our last day or so there, they brought us back to Ming-founded Xiamen, where we did some touristy stuff, including crossing the waters over to
Gulangyu Island. This island is known for the statue and museum of Koxinga, old colonial houses and their fine doorways. Here, the shops sell sharks' fin and antiques as well as lots of crystal souvenirs. The island also features a Sunlight Rock, Risky Cave and a Protestant Church. Crowded, it reminded me a little of Sentosa. In Xiamen, we also had a look at the Wanshi Botanical Garden on Huyuan Lu, as well as the Nanputuo Temple. This temple was built during the Tang Dynasty and was quite interesting.
I feel though, what I loved most about the trip was the opportunity to spend more time with my grandparents and the extremely rare chance to see my ancestral home. The village I'd stayed in was
Yong Chun, part of
Min An area, where both my maternal grans are from. But I'd also passed by
Nam An, where my paternal grans are from, so that was very cool too. Anyway in Min An, we accompanied my gran to see her aunt (she was already over 100 yrs old I believe) and I couldn't help but feel awed as we pushed open the old double wood doors set grandly in a wall running protectively all round the house. We stepped over the threshold into a spacious square courtyard at the foot of the prayer hall. The prayer hall was filled with portrait sketches of all my ancestors overlooking a simple but sturdy-looking table with benches. This is where masters of the houses would sit, I'd heard. Flanking the courtyard were two wings and these were where the sleeping and living quarters were. I couldn't believe myself. The setting was exactly as how we'd always seen it on TV in period dramas and now I was standing in an authentic one! My grandma was very happy to be reunited with her aunt, who absolutely doted on her and it was touching to see the bond between them.
I've always noticed that my granny speaks our dialect Hokkien differently from the rest of us. Hers is very gentle and the pronunciation is different for some words, all in all more pleasant than the average Hokkien you hear on the street which can sometimes sound rather brusque. Finally in Yong Chun, I could hear the roots of her speech manner and it was definitely soothing on the ears. I'd even picked up on their intonations and colloquail words. It would appear that even though everyone in the region is speaking the same dialect, the variation in tone and words can sometimes vary so much that you can barely understand the next person if your villages are separated by a mountain or two. That's just how massive China is.
China has already offered me many unique experiences as you can tell. Another memorable one is my encounter with The Syringe. You see, I'd been attacked by sandflies and the itching was driving me nuts. So I popped over to the local medical centre and was prescribed an injection to relief the discomfort. Alright till the nurse brought the needle out. The needle was long and thick, but nothing compared to the size of the syringe. It was easily the length of my forearm and possibly rounder in diameter. Not flipping must have been one of my greatest achievements.
Months after we returned home, I recceived a letter from one of the younger remotely related cousins. I was very surprised as I'd met her just once on the trip and spoken to her only very briefly. She was about my age and after a page of pleasantries, she beseeched me to introduce her an eligible man for marriage and included her photo. I was quite dumbfounded to be honest but don't think I ever did anything about it, not least because I was a student incapable of matchmaking services.
I've not been to China again since, but if I do get to visit South China again, I hope to visit the following.
Foshan (25km from Canton) - known for their ceramic ware since the Han dynasty. Also features Zumiao (Ancestral Temple) and delicate paper cutting.
Fuzhou - cosmopolitan trading port that dates back to the Tang dynasty. One of the first cities to open to Western residents under the Treaty of Nanking in 1842. It is also next to the scenic Min river and has a reputation for lantern making.
Fujian Provincial Museum - located in Xihu Park, highlights are industrial ceramic figures from a tomb dating to the 10th C, a full size boat coffin 3500 years old and Song black ceramics.
White Pagoda - surviving very old bricks. Near to Dashi Hall, previously a shrine for city officials but now the city museum. Exhibits a Song dyn tomb with its male and female occupants on view in a tank. West of the hall is Black Pagoda which bears some fine carvings.
Lin Zexu Memorial Hall - protestor of opium trade.
Quanzhou (1.5hr ride from Yong Chun) - Qingzhou mosque, Kaiyuan Buddhist Temple and lots of ornaments and stone carvings of the 12 signs.
Wuyishan (12hrs from Yong Chun) - a little visited mountain reserve in northern Fujian. Raft trips can be arranged at Xiamen.
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wendy
non-member comment
Wow! Great Trip!
Wow! Winnie, I love ur travel journal on ur trip back to China! It's very personal and thoughtful (esp considering the fact that u're writing this 8 yrs past the actual visit). It's a visit I wld love to have made myself only our grandma's not here anymore. I love her gentle ways and still miss her very much. (I hope Chiara will grow up to be as kind and gentle as ah ma) N the bit abt her meeting with her centenarian aunt! Incredible. Pp just don't live to this ripe old age even with all the advance medical interventions in our modern day city. I dun know how u survive the syringe. I wld have fainted. :) That's one trip/ "immersion experience" u can never get even if u were to travel alone or with a tour gp.