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Start of the trip
The first day lacked excitement and this was the only picture taken.The idea for this trip started when I was seconded by my employer to attend a conference in Cape Town from a Monday to Wednesday.
Copy this link to download the Google Map of the trip. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7v1b62guns7jqp0/AAAbDW4WV-efgK7_kX0jKCsba
By leaving for Cape Town on the Saturday and taking leave on the Thursday and Friday after the conference it gave me 6 possible travel days. Two there and four back.
The plan was to stick to tar and get to Cape Town safely on the Sunday, sleeping over at friends in George.
The visit to Jannie and Lene’ in George was, as always, a great pleasure and I was treated to excellent food and a fantastic bottle of Pinotage. The pleasant conversation however was the highlight and once again it was very difficult to leave early the next morning.
I took the Outeniqua Pass with the idea to get to my destination via Oudshoorn and Calitz Dorp, following the R62, also known as “Rout 62”. After Calitzdorp there are some very nice passes which I always wanted to do on a motorbike and now was the chance. The only “problem” was that the previous days tar
was already too much and as soon as I sough a gravel road turning off to the left, I had to stop and investigate where it would lead to.
The Track4Africa map showed that I could actually reach Barrydale from there, only making use of gravel. Needless to say, the original “safe plan” was discarded in a second and the result was blissful gravel with beautiful scenery.
Decisions like these always have other consequences as well, but they normally only become apparent some time after the initial decision. How long is this going to take me? Will I get through or will the condition of the road prevent me? If I get to a “difficult” part, will I be able to contain myself and turn around?
I can already hear my friend Koos saying, “If you had a KTM 300 2 Stroke you would not have to ask these questions”.
The road had one challenge in the form of a very slippery river crossing which only became a problem after two thirds of the crossing. Too late to turn around and therefore I was not guilty of taking on a risky challenge on my own. My
boots were full of water and I decided that it would be wise to put on dry socks. The wet ones were tied to the top of the luggage to dry in the wind.
When last did you drive on roads in our country where you still have to open and close gates? What a nice experience again. There must have been at least 12 of them, contributing to a not so high average speed on the trip, but also giving the opportunity for absorbing the beauty and taking a picture now and then.
After finding the hotel where I was booked in (Tsogo Sun) , I had to park at the entrance with my muddy and dusty attire. There was no other way. The reception staff of the 4 star facility came out with one of those luggage trolleys, copper coloured pipes bent in arches from corner to corner, all dressed like penguins in black and white. I felt awkward, especially after noticing that my wet socks which were dry by now was hanging to the left and right of the luggage. The penguins however were trained well enough to not distinguish between clean cars and dirty
motorcycles with socks hanging all over them. I loaded the dusty stuff on the trolley myself to spare them the pain of trying to get the dust off their neat black pants.
On the morning when I had to check out, the luggage had to be stored at reception until departure later that day. Once again I noticed how different bikes are from cars. I had seven tags for the individual pieces. They were 1. Normal clothes bag, 2. Tent, sleeping bag and mattress bag, 3. boots bag, 4. Bike jacket , 5 Bike pants, 6. Tank-bag, 7. Helmet.
On the Wednesday evening I stayed over in Stellenbosch where our daughter and I went to one of the many very nice restaurants, had good wine, good food and good conversation.
Thursday morning early the somewhat misty, wet and chilly weather in the peak traffic between Stellenbosch and Grabouw reminded me why I love getting out on the bike. Although my mood at the time was not the best, I knew that the day could only get better. All these people were on their way to work and I was on my way to …..who knows what, but
Putting on dry socks.
The slush, slush feeling in my wet boots was too much and this gate stop was a perfect excuse to change to dry socks. for sure it would be another experience.
Because the Cape is so well developed, it becomes a challenge to find gravel roads. One more reason to get out more often. The “off the beaten track” areas are being depleted rapidly.
At Grabouw I filled up and spent some more time on the chain maintenance and oiling system because there were some dirt ahead on the way to Hermanus , Gansbaai and whatever came after that.
In Stanford I have an aunt who I have not seen for many years and decided to pay her a visit if I could find her house. I found the house and left after a brief but unforgettable visit, knowing that it was worth much more than the travel time lost. You never know when you will have the opportunity again. I promised myself again that I will take the time to engage with the people close to me.
Because the road to Gansbaai does not require too much concentration, my brain philosophised further on the topic, the conclusion being that it is mutually beneficial and gratifying to show interest in the people close to us.
Although the idea was
Overlooking Grabouw
First off the tar roads, overlooking Grabouw too stick as close to the coast on gravel, the time would not allow this. At Gansbaai I took a turn to the left, direction Baardskeerdersbos, then to BredasDorp after which I got back on the gravel to Malgas.
Without going into detail, I have learnt the following lessons on this stretch of road. If there are roadworks and the road surface suddenly change to a perfectly flat, freshly graded part, WATCH OUT! The bike suddenly started to jump around as if a bee had stung it. The surface was loose with big rocks hidden beneath it. It was like riding in sand but with sudden changes of direction when a hidden rock would decide on the next direction. Shocked and full of adrenalin I could only think of one solution. Gear down to get power, Stand up to get control and open up to keep momentum. The only other possibility I can think of is to stop, battle to the side of the road and take it slow through the felt.
The next lesson was that if you see a grader and some other workers on the same stretch of construction road, there is a good chance
Roadworks on Western Cape roads.
Sharing roads with construction vehicles and workers has its own challenges. that they have a line stretched across the road, used for some kind of levelling. Therefore….., if you see one or more of the workers walking briskly and with clear direction and intention, or in some cases even running, SLOW DOWN!. They are on their way to drop the “level” line before it gets stuck around your neck.
The roads were normal, nice and deprived of traffic when suddenly there was a big river (big in South African terms) without a bridge ahead. After going down the hill a little further I noticed a ferry. The ferry had a two manpower engine, both with slings around their bodies. The ferry is guided by a steel rope to which the two men would connect their slings and then they “walk” the ferry across the river. It is a beautiful spot and one of those I would like to visit again and camp at if possible.
Time was running out and my plans to get to Fleesbaai on gravel had to be changed because I would sleep over in George with Chris and Emily that evening. The new route now changed and from Riversdale I took the N2 to George.
Malgas ferry crossing from T4A
If you do not know T4A, google it. Chris is the guy who I wrote about in a previous report called “East London to Grootbrak with strangers”. After that trip Chris was no stranger and they have moved down to George in the meantime. I was heartily welcomed into their immaculate new home and felt overwhelmed by their hospitality, good food and everything else. The next morning Chris would “guide” me out of George up the Outeniqua Pass after having a fantastic coffee and breakfast at their favourite little bakery / restaurant called Lauren’s Deli & Eatery.
http://ilovecoffee.co.za/2010/10/01/laurens-deli-eatery-george/ It was one of those “life is good” mornings again. We enjoyed the pass without going too fast after promising Emily that we would be careful. Chris greeted me at the top of the pass and we parted with the knowledge that we enjoy each other’s company.
Where the Montagu Pass road from George reaches the R62, there is another gravel road going to De Rust. This is a worthwhile road leading through ostrich country and if you are on your way to the Baviaans I cannot suggest a better route. From De Rust I drove through the beautiful Meirings Poort and then turned right to Willowmore.
The Willowmore road is straight and beautiful gravel where you can travel at speed if you are awake.
At Willowmore I filled up the bike, bought peanuts and raisins, some energy bars and a bottle of Old Brown Sherry to warm me up if the night in the Baviaans would become too cold. I did not have any cooking stuff with me but would be able to survive on what I had.
I have been in the Baviaans a few years ago and in my memory the roads were less corrugated then. The traffic through there has increased a lot since then and you now also have to pay a toll, but still very affordable.
As the day was drawing to an end I turned off to Doornkloof Boskamp and was pleasantly surprised by it. The tent was pitched on perfect green lawns next to a little dam and the night cost me R80 for the site, R40 for a braai pack, R20 for a lot of wood and R15 for a beer. There was only one other couple in the place, but they stayed in a chalet and out of siteI had no fire lighters or
paper or other means to light the fire and had to improvise by soaking some of the thinner pieces of wood in the bikes fuel tank after dusting them off a bit. It worked like a charm and, mmmm…. I am repeating myself too often now, but what a heck of an evening it was. Things like these you cannot describe, so let me stop trying.
A Last word on this campsite. The ablutions are basic but fantastic because they have proper hot water. I do not know other camp sites in the Baviaans, but have no reason to find out if they are better or worse.
Although I had another two days before having to report at work again, it was time to get back home. After packing up camp I looked forward to the rest of the Baviaans, especially the water crossings and the passes ahead. The one water crossing surprised me with its length and many loose round rocks because I could not remember it like this. It might be because I am maturing, which is hard to except, or hopefully it is worse than last time.
To summarise, it was once gain a
fantastic experience with a lot of wild life, especially kudu.
After this it was heading home on the normal roads with nothing to report. What a shame, but once again it was worth every cent, pain and effort.
Life is worth living, but we are the masters of our destiny and make the decisions. The source or conviction on which we base our decisions plays a vital role in the final outcome.
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