'Ask in Paris, Berlin, or New York what the number one trail in Kruger is, and they'll all tell you - Sweni. We are the best. We are the A-Team'. Lourens and Nthambelenin ('call me Ndou - it's easier') our rangers, introduced themselves to us thus around the campfire. 'You Europeans are lost. We are going to bring you back to nature'. Explaining the morning routine, Lourens said 'there are no alarm clocks here - don't worry you'll be woken up - early'. Indeed, around 04.30 Ndou wisphered a soft good morning outside our A-frame hut, and I heard the sound of warm water being poured into the enamel basin on the porch. By flashlight I washed my face and tried to wake myself up. After a quick cup of tea (a huge kettle of water
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