Today we were in Umtata, which had been the old capital of the Transkei, another Black homeland created during the apartheid period. This was also a community that was quite disadvantaged, near the childhood home of Nelson Mandela. In this ciy, there is a Nelson Mandela Road, a Nelson Mandela Drive, and a Nelson Mandela Street, all different - be careful when asking directions! There were piles of trash on many corners of the town, and the whole place appeared dirty and rundown. Umtata is the old spelling, and Mthatha is the new, corrected spelling. The place has a reputation for crime; the people at our hotel (the Windsor) were surprised to see whites there. In the morning we discovered the hotel didn’t have hot water, so after a quick cold shower, we set out to
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