Blogs from Senegal, Africa

I was asked to go to Senegal for my work, which was to find out about how weather forecasts are used by agriculturalists and local forecasters. So I boarded a plane to Lisbon, with a connection to Dakar. The flight out was fine apart from North West England’s finest flatulent Scouse Stag party on board (replacing Manchester’s trumpiest between said city and the airport on the train) and the loud middle class family with screeching brats. The plane arrived close to midnight and then the fun began. Dakar airport is full of hustlers, including the staff. Outside was confusing, dark and hassle. My transfer driver to the hotel disappeared and I was getting hassled for changing money by people who appeared to be connected to the hotel and they insisted I had to change before getting ... read more

Wednesday Day 39 My alarm went off at 06:14 so I could squeeze in a shower before breakfast at 7 but I really didn't want to get up. I'd planned on having one the night before but my towel was on the truck and Toni was sleeping up there. I did not want to incur the wrath of Toni (who's lovely and probably wouldn't mind but still). Some people had been having cold showers but mine was hot and with the early morning air still cool, I actually felt refreshed! I unplugged all my electronics and packed them along with my sleeping bag and toiletries and dragged my bag out to the truck before breakfast, putting the stuff I wanted for the day under my seat. We were on wash-up after everyone had finished eating and ... read more

After spending two days in NYC visiting an old friend from college and walking around the city taking in all of the sights and sounds, I rushed off (almost too late) to meet some of my traveling companions from Minnesota. I met my father, Books for Africa founder Tom Warth, and Lang Dibba (a Gambia living in MN) at JFK for the overnight flight to Dakar. Africa really does begin on the plane, where Wolof (the regional native language) seems to be the primary language. Dakar is a crazy place. Dust, pollution, crazy driving, street children everywhere. We met a friend of Lang's and spent a couple of hours at her house resting and eating while they worked to arrange a transport for our drive to The Gambia. Our transport was a beat up old Pegot ... read more

part iv of iv ...lutte remixes the hi-tech and low-tech typical Senegal, there has been an accommodating of hi-tech into daily life, without total assimilation or even obvious leaning toward wanting to lead a hi-tech life. that is, tradition and african life live alongside the blackberry (at least for now). this lutte match was no different: a large generator kept the string of faulty bulbs glowing, along with a radio and speakers that were literally taller and wider than i. the dimly lit spectator benches had bright spots of cell phone luminescence. but to keep the mosquitos away? no sprays, no creams, no nets, no fancy t.v. advertisements about malaria or anti-mosquito products...but instead during pre-game, the field boys made small shell mounds, added sand on top, then a a few sticks, then lit a little ... read more

part i of iv 'lutte' is the highly acclaimed and deeply beloved Senegalese national sport – and is essentially a traditional form of wrestling... ...and considering i don't even like the western world version of lutte, my enthusiasm for attending a local match tonight was driven only by curiosity...and a desire to break through my aloof attitude towards something so important to a country I love. and that I did. i normally catch lutte on the beach. often towards sundown, boys and young men begin their very casual, definitely unrefereed matches. having never bothered to inquire with friends, i still have no clear idea of what goes, what doesn't go, and what is considered below the belt. once in a while, I catch the other extreme of lutte: very professional and definitely refereed. these major matches ... read more