Blogs from Gorée Island, Cape Verde Peninsula, Senegal, Africa

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Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island December 7th 2018

I came across a new word recently; “bleisure”. It is the ugly conflation of the words business and leisure. To reveal the true ghastliness it should probably be pronounced in a Californian accent and should rhyme with seizure. It’s meaning is the combination of a leisure trip and a business trip. I’ve often tacked on some leisure time to various business visits. More often than not this was due to my previous employers being too mean to fly me back on an expensive Friday night flights. Often marooned in various places e.g. Houston (massively underrated) or Jakarta (un-rateable) for an extra day or so. They’ve proved to be impromptu bonding sessions with colleagues that no amount of expensive team building nonsense would ever substitute. More often there is some down time within the schedule for a ... read more
The House of Slaves
Door of No Return

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island March 4th 2018

28 février De retour à Dakar, j'organise mon départ pour aller, cette fois, passer deux nuits sur l'île de Gorée, baignant dans l'océan tout au sud de la ville. (l'île de N'Gor était, elle, située tout au nord). C'est Abdoulaye le taximan qui me déposera au port de Dakar. De là, un traversier plein à fendre m'amènera sur Gorée, l'incontournable lieu touristique du Sénégal. La majeure partie des visiteurs s'y rendent pour la journée seulement, pour ensuite retourner à Dakar le soir venu. Pour ma part, je prévois y passer deux nuits, question de palper l'ambiance de l'île après le départ du dernier traversier. Sans surprise, je pose pied sur Gorée accompagné d'une vague de vacanciers majoritairement sénégalais ou français. De curieux voyageurs blancs habillés d'un beige safari ou vêtus de toges à l'africaines brillent dans ... read more
Gorée
Lessive
Partie de Foot

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island November 5th 2016

Nous faisons du mieux que nous pouvons pour partir le matin sur l'île de Gorée. Nous prendrons finalement le bateau de 12h30. Nous payons 10 fois plus cher le bateau que nous pensions. Nous arrivons sur l'île. La religieuse qui nous accueille dans le dispensaire de l'ordre de Malte que nous servons, nous propose la nuitée à 25 000 F CFA. Nous pensions aussi à la gratuité et le prix demandé est bien au-dessus des prix du marché. Cette journée commence par l’accumulation de désillusions financières. L’après-midi est meilleure. Nous discutons par hasard avec Ismael Sarr, un Sénégalais de Saint-Louis. Il a fait sa classe préparatoire en France, a intégré l’école des Eaux et Forêts. Il est très heureux de nous rencontrer parce que Pimprenelle et Delphine font l’école de ses rêves (Polytechnique, cf articles précédents). ... read more
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Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island July 22nd 2010

Well, we survived our last few days in Koungheul, a few horribly long days in Kaolack with no electricity, no water, nowhere to go and nothing to do , and we're now back in lovely Dakar. Things that once seemed so run-down, strange, and dirty to Mom now seem clean, in great condition, and highly advanced after two weeks out in smaller towns. It's all about perspective. We drove back to Dakar in a taxi in the middle of a ridiculous downpour. I was worried our taxi driver just wouldn't show up to drive us due to the awful weather, but he was just late because the guy who gives out authorization to leave the city overslept. Oh, Senegal. Driving between Kaolack and Dakar is a bit like a video game. You need to dodge the ... read more
Mom and me on N'Gor Island
view from the top of Gorée
artwork in Gorée

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island April 16th 2009

This entry dates to Thursday April 9, and, again, is pretty much straight out of my journal I woke up thursday morning and mr jobe was right next to me. i shot out of bed and went to the bathroom. when i came back he had stretched himself across my part of the bed. i took the towels off the chair and sad and read my book until he woke up. we got ready and the wife brought food. we ate and left. we walked to the junction where i hailed us a cab. he said "are you sure you want to ride in that cab? the body looks sketchy." it was one of the nicer cabs i'd seen in dakar. i said "they all look like that, most worse." so we got in and set ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island July 15th 2008

Ils Du Goree ıs located just off the coast of Dakar, though ıt feels lıke a mıllıon miles away from the cıty. It´s peaceful and quıte, fresh and surrounded by clean crystal water. The colonıal strustures that have been destroyed around the maınland stıll stand on Goree and make for beautıful scenery. The ısland ıs unfortuntaly famous for ıt´s connectıon wıth the slave trade. It´s true hıstory ıs a lıttle merky, and the actual extent of the the ıslands ınvolvment ıs unclear, but ın any case ıt has 2 museums that clearly dısplay the gruesome detaıls of the slave trade and serves as a neccessary remınder of the events of the past. We stayed ın a hotel that felt more lıke a southern plantatıon than the stınky hostels we became accustomed too. There were huge wındows ... read more
Allyways around our hotel
Ally to the beach
Goree

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island January 27th 2008

Hey Everyone, We have made our base camp on Goree Island, near Dakar. Our good friends Fode Sissoko and Toby Stover welcomed us to the Dakar area nearly a week ago. We were fortunate to be able to stay in the Sissoko family compound the first night, where we met many wonderful people, but conditions were very primitive so we moved onto Goree. Zoya and Max have been busy learning about the history and people here, and beginning a series of interviews. We will have photos and journal entries to share when we get back to more accessible internet service. Tomorrow we will head up the coast to Saint Louis, and then down to the Delta country. These adventures will take some time to process! There has been, all along, miraculous musical accompaniment to our journey. ... read more

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island September 9th 2007

I had been looking forward to going to Gorée Island since I first read about it in my guidebook. I knew it was an important port in the Trans-Atlantic slave trade, but I did not know how fabulous the rest of the island was going to be. The day started off late. Of course. Senegal is so laid back that sometimes it seems like time stands still. We were supposed to be at school at 7:45am, which of course meant we left at 9, thereby missing the 9am ferry which left from the port on the other side of town. Once at the port, we were hearded like cattle through the gates to a ferry that was barely tethered to the dock. We had to leap across to the boat and then fight for a seat ... read more
approaching Gorée Island
the rocky beach near the pier
near the pier

Africa » Senegal » Cape Verde Peninsula » Gorée Island February 21st 2007

Went to Goree Island today, the famed "point of no return" for my African forebears who were sold or traded into slavery. Learned that the men were priced by weight, the babies by the number of teeth, women were priced based on their breast size or whether they were virgins. Men who weighed less than about 120 lbs were put together in a room and fed more for fattening up; women who became pregnant by the slave traders were allegedly freed and the babies sold into slavery. In general, people would be held in the slave house in iron shackles for three months, 24 hours a day, allowed out of their rooms once a day, to relieve themselves. The curator gave a commanding summary at the foot of the stairs to the slave house. He said ... read more
Door of No Return
Slave House
Guadeloupe's gift to Goree Island




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