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Published: April 19th 2012
Wasdag
As jy min saamvat moet jy meer gereeld was, maar dit is so min dat dit vinnig gaan.We decided that not to travel further north, but rather spend some time in Inhassoro for two days without traveling. The 4th of April started with fantastic wheather for a change and it stayed like that for 2 days.
We started the day by doing our washing after having some instant oats. These instant oats packets I can reccommend to anyone who need to travel light. Having a breakfast of some sorts makes for a good start to the day. I have to thank my wife for this brilliant idea.
The washing line is something you should not forget on any trip, expecially if you travel light. We had 3 of everything, except for jeans of which I had two pairs. I could have done it with one pair.
After breakfast and washing we went for a walk on the beach in the hope to find a boat to some island. A local told us that we should ask Gabrijel, the manageres at Seta Hotel to organise a boat to Santa Carolina, also known as Paradise Island (the one where they had the survivor TV series).
The first price from one of the barmen who had a
brother with a boat or something like that was 8000 Meticals. Way to steep for my liking. The second price from a more official source was 3000 or at least in this range. We accepted the second price. Later that day, almost at sunset, some S.A fishermen met us in the campsite and said that they would organise a Dhow (I now learned how to spell it) for a good price with one of the locals. They returned later and said that it was organised for M 2000. This once again stresses the point of negotiations in Africa, negotiations with patiens. We cancled the previouse offer and were set for 06:00 the next morning.
During our beach walk in the morning we noticed many rows of people along the beach. They were pulling out nets which were taken into the water very early in the morning, up to three kilometers into the bay. They take everything which is draged out in the net. Very sad to see. We were however told tht since last year the goverment has made a law that for three monts, I do not know the specific months, they are not allowed to fish with
Plaaslike haarkapper
Hy het aangebied om my hare ook te sny, maar ek sal dit volgende keer doen. nets. I can only hope that this is enough to ensure recovery of the sea life.
Later the day we decided to explore Inhassoro and went for a drive through the town with the aim to do the local thing. We discovered the local bakery with three different typs of bread. I wish we could have this quality bread for the same price in S.A.
We had something to drink at the "Yes Bar" and then went to the local market. Here we started talking to some locals at "Banca Mira Mar". It was about time for lunch and they confirmed that the resturant was open. They were not sure if fish was on the menu, but the chef confirmed that fish and chips was available.
We ordered two fish and chips and the fun started. The next moment one of the women working at Mira came from the direction of the market with a big fish hanging on a scale. I followed her into the kitchen whare the fish was presented to the chef for approval. The chef noticed me and asked if I thought the fish was o.k.
Later someone else came over from
Kroeg & Resturant in die mark
Hier het ons lekker met die "locals" gekuier. the market with a bag of potatos. When I went back into the Kitchen there were at least three people busy preparing our meal. I think it was one hour after we placed the order before we were invited to the table. We could wash our hands while the chef pored water from a jug. The atmospfere, the taste and the effort that went into this meal for a rediculously low price and the attitude from the chef was one of the special experiences which will stay with me.
I do not remember what or if we had something for supper that evening, but nothing could be better than the bread and fish we had during the day.
The quote for this day can only be:
Local is Lekker!
Day 9 was an early rise for us in order to be at Frans the fishermans place at 06:00.
Upon our arrival we were offered coffee, and got introduced to our Dhow skipper Peter.
Peter has an interesting story and was one of the victims of zenophobia in Sout Africa. He is however a very pleasent chap with relatively good English. He had two of his sons with for the trip. They were his
Ons middag ete
Vars van die mark. Wat meer wil jy he? helpers and although I did not see the need, it now is clear to me that you can handle these dhow's with difficulty on your own when transporting paying customers.
Dawie took us to the beach in his bakkie althoug it was well within wlalking distance. We started the journey to Santa Carolina in a light breeze on calm waters. The tide was going out and this meant that we were sailing against the current. The wind was also coming from the front at an angle which forced Peter to sail at a very sharp angle to the wind. The wind increased and the water became rough, splashing onto us and into the boat some times. It became a battle to reach the island and the last part Peter instructed his two sons to row us onto the shore. This was hard work and later Tommie and Peter both jumped in and helped with the rowing while I could steer the boat. You have to make your choices in life and someone had to take the responsibility for steering:-) The trip must have been about three hours.
Peter, who actualy grew up on the Island now also acted
Plaaslike mark
Die mense is vriendelik en hier en daar wil iemand geld he as jy 'n foto neem, maar dit is maar jou eie besluit of jy dan openlik 'n foto neem. as our guide. His farther, a Potugese, used to work at the hotel many years ago. He showed us the hotel and could explain what it used to look like. Walking there amongst the ruins I could picture that it must have been a very exclusive holiday destination. After the couple who started and managed the place passed away, the management was taken over by the government. It is clear that the "under new management" did not work well in this particular case. After that the last straw was the huricane they had some time ago. The locals believe that the island has been bought by an American and hope that he will restore it to its former glory.
The only fishing allowed on the islnad is catch and release, and the locals don't dare breaking these rules because their boats are then confiscated. They realise that their boats are their lifeline. Because of this Carolina is a good place to snorkel. We had our diving goggles and snorkels without flippers with us, and it was good enough. This was the first time I had the opportunity to see these beautifull tropical fish in their natural habitat and actualy
be in the same water with them. What na experience.
The trip back was faster and we were ready for the mainland after a day filled with good experiences.
I do not know how Dawie knew when we would return, but he met us on the beach just after we arrived, took us back to their place and offered us a meal of Marlyn fish cakes and some other fish. We ate until we could not eat any more. Then they packed us a lot of the fantastic fish cakes for our trip back south which would start the next day.
On top of all this Dawie phoned Renier in Sodwana who look after a joint development for them and told him to open his house for us in case we came past there on our way back.
Quote for the day....... ???? Thinking..... After the treatment we had from fellow Afrikaans South Africans....:
PROUDLY SOUTH AFRICAN / TROTS AFRIKAANS
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ilana
non-member comment
jaloers
Ai pa dit lyk als so lekker sou grag dit sam wou doen next time!