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Published: March 24th 2009
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I took a bus across the border from Mellila to Nador. No Hassle at the border. Only remark I got was Mischa VAN?? No family of VAN Basten? Nope! A lot of the Morrocons still live in the past, it is always Gullit, Kruiff, van Basten, Rijkaard. Anyway after a beautiful trip, as it is spring after all in Morocco, I arrived in Fès, entered through the Bab (gate) el Mahrouk and entered the medieval times... After waving off some touts, faux guides, whatever you want to call them, I found the ryad I wanted to stay, full! So I had to make use of one and he brought me to another ryad. A ryad is a privately owned house with a courtyard and several rooms which can be rented. I got myself a smelly, grotty, damp room and was happy for that moment...
Not knowing that I couldn't lock the door, the staff would be begging for money every time they supposedly did something for me and it was really really really damp!
Anyway after settling down, I really enjoyed Fès, I used one more time my faux guide, to bring me to a restaurant with wine, after which
Fès tanneries
You can get there without going through a shop... he got arrested by the secret police. I was a bit startled when it happened and I just walked into the restaurant, which was a horrible kitch place, so I left. Two days later I met him again and whined to me that they had hold him for two days! Good I thought, you shouldn't have tried to rip me off in the first place!
Anyway after this incident I did everything by myself, ignored all the monsieur, welcome my friend and other invitations and had a great time. I found the tanneries, kasbahs, museums and souqs. Ate and drank very well and had, ok, a damp sleep.
On the third day I had tea with my host, he was a nice old man and he asked me all about my life. Not married, no brothers, no sisters, no children, travelling alone, why is your mother not here (that was the funniest!)? So according to him I must have been a very unhappy person! It was a very funny experience though and certainly not my last either. Yesterday on the bus from Marrakesh to Taroudant, I sat beside a lady who started the conversation with; English French? I
answered English, to keep her quiet for a while as I didn't want her to talk the whole 7 hours to me and I would not be able to look at the brilliant landscape of the anti Atlas.
Eventually I asked her in French where she was from and where she was going, so now I got her whole life history, she was fun though and told me through what villages we were driving, where I had to look for the scenery and so on. When we said goodbye she shook my hand and waved goodbye, another friendly Moroccan!
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