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Blogs from Libya, Africa - page 8
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December 22nd 2006
Pulled into Cyrene at the front of the museum at around dusk; we were going to camp in the parking lot but the restaurant told us security might tell us to move so we could camp on their lawn for a small fee, plus it's fenced from the dogs (???). Well thank Allah we did because there were a LOT of dogs pacing at the fence barking all night. Cyrene and Apollonia are back up on the coast again (3 days drive north from where we were in the desert) about a days drive from Egypt; they're actually Greek ruins from way back in the days before the Romans/Phoenicians showed up (around the 5th/6th century BC), so needless to say they're fairly unique to see in these parts. Anyway, after waking up we headed straight to ... read more
December 13th 2006
After 2 nights spent in Ghadames (highlight was walking through the Old City, and trying to get a wire soldered for my charger), passed through Sabha for lunch which turned out to be the town where all the tour guides lived (about 2 hours from starting point fo 4WD tour). Got to camp around dinner, which sits right at the foot of the sand dune sea. Of course Jen, Jamie and I had to climb to the top right away; surprisingly it isn't that difficult and only took about 10 minutes (mind you we eventually climbed others that were much bigger!) Decided to stay in the tents that night to save a little cash (as opposed to one of the bungalows). Next morning drove straight south for about 3 hours down the highway (and I mean ... read more
December 9th 2006
It's hard these days to get excited about seeing yet another site of ruins, we've seen so many so far on the trip. But they say Leptis is the be all and end all of Phoenician/Roman ruins and after being there, I'd probably agree. It's massive - the usual array of bathouses, amphitheatres, markets, forums, etc. You're apparently not allowed in without a guide (which I think is silly and another money grab). Hardly anyone there, on the ocean (Nigel wanted us to swim, but way too cold); about 70% is still unexcavated, and the 30% that is is HUGE. Saw everything to see, camped in the parking lot, and drove over to the amphitheatre to look at it during sunrise (probably turned out to be one of my favorites so far). Was interesting to see ... read more
December 7th 2006
Pulled up to the Tunisian/Libyan border around noon; people seemed to be simply going through the motions of getting us thru. Was nice because we stayed on the truck, and as he looked at each passport, we just stuck our head out the window and waved. Couple more people inspected the truck, someone asked the group if anyone has anything to declare (of course not), and after about a 1/2 hour we're off through no-man's land. Spent about an hour waiting on the truck at the Libyan border for official tour people to do paperwork with each other, no need to talk to anyone, and we were off! Sabratha isn't that far from the border (maybe 100km); was one of the ancient cities of "Tripolitania" (along with modern day Tripoli and "Leptis Magna") so has a ... read more
December 7th 2006
I'd say Tripoli is the most modern city we've seen since leaving Vancouver. Lots of fancy new hi-rises and the like (presumably one of the places the oil money is going). The bank we were going to get money from closed at 1pm upon arrival to Tripoli (??), so apparently there was a bank machine we could use at another hotel (although traveller's cheques turned out to NOT be an option). It's amazing how difficult it is to get money out; ended up at the one bank machine on the other side of town numerous times to get out enough, for fear that it would be the only opportunity in Libya (luckily there's a safe on the truck). That night we were invited to Mr. Mohammed's "VIP Estate" for dinner. A man named Mohammed works for ... read more
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September 24th 2006
The narrow streets of Ghadames are fantastic, with intricately designed doorways, arches and meeting places. This is not to be missed, inside the homes in Ghadames is a surprise compared with the cool alleyways of whitewash to colour and detail on the interior is beautiful.... read more
September 23rd 2006
Qasr al Hajj and Nalut are really interesting as they are both round unlike those we experienced in Tunisia yet both are different on the inside. Al Hajj is a circular qasr both form the inside and outside, and Nalut is circular on the outside but inside is an interesting mess of narrow alleyways and steep climbs. You feel like a kid climbing around in these places but at the same time a part of history as you can see the baskets hanging and the pots still are used for olive oil storage, hoists to carry the grains up etc. ... read more
September 22nd 2006
Today we ventured to see the famous Leptis Magna, we would have to say one of the best (if not 'THE' best) roman ruins we have seen in all our travels. Only 30% of the ruins have been excavated, with the other 70% remaining under thick vegetation, which is quite incredible. On first sight of Leptis Magna it is huge, yet to imagine that what you see is only part of the massive city right on the mediterranean is just facinating. Most of the excavation was done by Italian soldiers during their occupation and the Libyan government is now undergoing attempts to uncover and remove some of the vegetation by 2008. The cost to excavate is massive, so how long this will take and whether there is funding set aside for this will be a 'wait ... read more
September 21st 2006
We spent the afternoon walking around the ancient roman ruins of Sabratha, located in Coastal Tripoltania. Frist we went to see the Amphitheatre which was set right on the Mediterranean and then drive along the Old Road to Oea to see the Antonine Temple, Judicial Basilica, Byzantine Wall, Forum, Temple of Serapis, and the Temple of Isis. It is quite a magnificent site, perched across such a large area and with a beautiful setting on the water, you can almost picture life as it was. We found it strange that there were so little people around! If these ruins were in Western Europem you would have to wait hours to get in! We were told however that as we were here in the "off season" that most of the European tour groups tend to avoid the ... read more
September 19th 2006
Arrived in Tripoli and was refreshed to see that Tripoli is quite a modern city on the water, bustling with people, cafe's and everything is painted white and Green. Green Square was great for people watching and as we arrived during the 37th Year of Gadaffi's rule so there were Green Flags and party lights up all over the city. The Red Fort (Assai al-Hamra) on the waterfront and beside Green Square makes it a lively area bustling with traffic and people. It also houses the Museum which is well worth a visit. The old Medina was open and the streets within in were straight after the romans, rather than the traditional narrow winding lanes in most medina's. It was quiet as it was Ramadan, so did not get a feel for it full and bustling ... read more
