Trapped on an island…on a lake…are you kidding me?

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We left Costa Rica with fond memories. It is the most important thing for us when traveling. Nice and pleasurable memories popping into our mind when we think back. We have already learnt that these memories depend on so many factors like weather conditions, people we met, lucky/unlucky events, food, hotel etc. When thinking of the future we only accept the best scenarios and maybe this positive way keeps us safe and happy most of the time.

We certainly hoped that our next destination would be equally lucky for us. We have heard so many great things about Isla Ometepe, with its beautiful landscape around not one but two volcanoes; and equally bad things about Nicaragua. It is still considered one of the most dangerous places in Central America and we witnessed countless conversations between people when they advised others not to go there. We believe that any place can be dangerous and majority of times it is only in our head.

We crossed the border by chicken bus (easy and nice), were scammed by an immigration officer and paid 12$ each instead of 10$, which was actually written on the card haha (not nice but funny that we did not notice it), got our money changed (because of poor counting skills we got too much for our Costa Rican change, lucky) and then got on a chicken bus to the Jan Jorge Port (easy and not at all dangerous) – mixed but overall positive experiences!

We got off at the cross-road and found a taxi driver to take us to Rivas to an ATM and then to the port. We were not sure if there were any working ATMs on the island so we preferred to be safe than sorry later on. The guy told us 3$ for everything (around 8km) so we did not argue. We always feel uncomfortable bargaining with rather poor people who try to make honest leaving, really. I think we have gotten soft since we left Asia haha

We had 1h of spare time in the port so we took some lovely lunch and toasted it with cold beer. We always do that the day we arrive in a completely new country. It is our way of expressing gratitude for the safe past and happy travels. So far, so good:-). Similarly to the taxi costs we were astonished of how little we paid. Maybe it was the past 2 weeks spent in Panama and Costa Roca, where everything is considerably pricier – lovely surprise for every traveler on a low budget!!!

Our friends advised us to take a lancha boat instead of a big ferry which is half cheaper and also very comfortable. We cannot complain but remember – you get what you pay for haha. It was really loud, smelled of fumes and waves were coming on board all the time. We saw people getting out of there quicker than they got in, but we love journeys like that so we would not mind doing it again haha Besides it is only 20 minutes or so…not a big deal at all and you save 3$ for the Ometepe’s cuba libre.

Aaaa the amazing cuba libre…. this is probably the first thing after silly marathon that comes to our mind when we think back. What marathon, you are probably thinking? Ha, that is going to be surprise to anybody as it was to us. We opted to stay in the port town of Mayogalpa just out of pure common sense. We heard that views were much better elsewhere but access to cheaper food and hotels were much better in here. When we went into the town’s favorite ‘The Landing’ hostel we were astonished to hear that we may not find places to sleep at all because of the marathon. “What marathon? Here?” – we asked. Well, there are weird things that people do around the world but this event could be a category by itself haha

During our stay on the island there was special marathon for fit and - let’s admit - rather crazy athletes. I am sure they would all be angry with these comments, but excuse me, who does such things? Well, there were 25km, 50km, 100km and Strongmen competitions and there would be nothing weird about them except that all of them included climbing a volcano....or two. My God, is running 50km not enough for people anymore? Do they have to run 100km and climb two really difficult volcanoes in the same time? Strongmen category also included swimming against the current, running while holding chickens and climbing up the volcano with bamboo in their arms….what did I say? Crazy,right? I am just saying that but to be honest, we really admired them all for even trying. Some of them took more than 20h to complete the race (had to do it within 24h). It was a funny view later on as majority of town’s visitors could not walk for days because of injuries, blisters etc they acquired. But they all wore their medals all the time - very proud, as they should be!!!

We say they are crazy to do this. The standard marathon is obviously not enough. Why people have to look for something more challenging all the time? Why we never have enough, no matter what we do? To be honest, they could say the same thing about us and any other travel addicts. Why 2-3 weeks active, adventurous holidays are not enough for us anymore? Why do we seek challenges, inconvenience, dangers and sometimes pain of independent traveling? We are all more alike more than we think and we started to understand that more and more during our travels. We all have some sort of addiction to new things we have never lived through and push ourselves more and more to experience them.

We were just the observers and we socialized with lucky participants but our stay there was more leisurely haha We did try to climb the Conception Volcano … gave up after 3h as it is tremendous hike up with dust, sand, branches of trees making it almost impossible (well, some people had to run up this thing so...maybe impossible for us). I do not enjoy climbs that are generally boring and there was not much around to hold our attention so we just turned back. It was a nice workout though and the entrance to the park is only 3,5km from the town. One day we rented bikes out (6$ each) and cycled 15km away to the much recommended Charco Verde Park. It was a great day out, with loads of good cycling, trekking with animal spotting and swimming in the Lake Nicaragua. The villages on the way are lovely and we really enjoyed interaction with people as well.

We wanted to go and see Madera Volcano but for some reason buses did not go regularly and we would have been trapped there if we had gone. Instead we had great lunch (cheese tacos, yummy) and loads of cuba libre drinks for 1$ only. This must have been the most surprising thing on the island – while everything else was rather pricey and close to ‘American standards’, rum and coke was so cheap….it would be a sin not to enjoy it? We also had some lovely Italian food as Valentines Day’s came and we just had to celebrate as we always do.

When we were finally ready to go we packed our bags and headed towards the pier. Groups of people were gathered there waiting for a ferry but we quickly realized that we would be going nowhere that day. Apparently winds and current were to strong for any boat/ferry to travel and the service was stopped. Fortunately we were not in a hurry but some people missed their plane etc. Have you ever heard about people being trapped on a lake with a shore just a few km away? It was madness, but we could not argue with nature right? When we realized that all these waiting people were going to look for some beds that night we turned around and went back to our hostel – were lucky to take two last places. To be honest we could have been trapped somewhere horrible but instead we had great food, listened to some great music and of course we know that cuba libre can make up for pretty much anything right?





Additional Info:


• There is a bank and ATM at the border (Nicaraguan side) and we really advise changing money with them if you have loads left, as they give great rates. We got a good deal from the black market too . ATM has VISA service ONLY so for other cards you have to take a bus to Rivas (1$)
• Boat schedule to/from Ometepe you can find under: http://www.ometepenicaragua.com/ferryboat.php
• There are 3 different ATMs on Isla Ometepe – only one operating Mastercard though
• Generally you are required by local law to take a guide up any of the volcanoes but if you only go up the viewing point it is not necessary. This is all due to the deaths that occurred in the past. We were not recommended doing all the way up (Madera volcano) because of the cloud forests and obscured views but Conception viewing point is only maybe 3,5h up so worth it.
• Really recommend American Café for breakfasts – prices are high-ish, but not as high as elsewhere and food is amazing
• Best cheese and chicken tacos we found in a small bar next to The Landing Hostel – really recommended.

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Photos

view from Esquiputas
nice sand bar going into the lake

our favorite
tacos and cuba libre:-)

taking a break on the beach
view of volcano Maderas in the background

nice spot for a rest
Tomek high up:-)

on the lancha
pretty basic but sound

in Esquiputas
favorite beach place of local people

Comments

[taracloud]

Wonderful travel spirit!
Great photos, especially that first one. I so love your traveling spirit: going to fab places others are afraid of and finding it fantastic, remembering the best in places visited, exploring up volcanoes, lakes, etc. You whet my appetite for Nicaragua and a cuba libre!

[RENanDREW]

Looks delicious!