Salar de Uyuni / Southwestern Circuit


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April 24th 2006
Published: April 24th 2006
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¿Problemas?¿Problemas?¿Problemas?

Bus rides in Bolivia are never easy.
After we had exhausted Pososi´s eating, drinking and sightseeing possibilities we headed 7hours southish to the town of Uyuni, dropping off point for jeep tours around the Southwest.

The journey itself was fairly uneventful by Bolivian standards, with only a couple of stops for ´problemas´(which turned out to be a driveshaft problem) but nevertheless we arrived in Uyuni relatively on time and in one piece.

The town is on the edge of the worlds highest (everywhere in Bolivia seems to be the highest something...) and largest salt lakes. Not sure of the exact proportions but they are something like 300miles across and at 3500m asl.

So we took a 3 day jeep tour over the salar and south through the volcanos and lagunas of the high andes between Chile and Bolivia.

Had a great time, if a little tiring. Our ´guide´ was really just a driver, albeit a good one who showed good stamina on the long drives (helped no doubt by the copious amounts of coca he chewed). Our ´cook´, 18yr old Elizabeth fluctuated between hugging us all and stomping around when we asked for anything (i.e a bit of salt). She also posessed only 2
Train GraveyardTrain GraveyardTrain Graveyard

On the way out of Uyuni to the salt flats we passed a ´cemeterio de trens´ Hundreds of trains and bits left to rust in the salty desert.
cassette tapes of ´Eclipse´(woeful bolivian pop group) which was played solidly for 3 days and led to us making plans to sabotage the tapes! The songs (in particular 2 of them) now send shivers down our spines! If you can download it, get ´Cerveza´or ´Amor´by Eclipse and you will see what we mean!

Took over 550 pictures in 3 days! Scenery was amazing, a bit of an overload infact!

When we got back to Uyuni, we jumped on a night train south to Villazon for the Argentine border, which we crossed at 10am Saturday 22nd. After that we boarded a bus to Salta (8hours) where we plan to stay until Thursday.

Lots of love to all
Rach and Chris xx


Additional photos below
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Salar de UyuniSalar de Uyuni
Salar de Uyuni

20mins out of Uyuni, hundreds of miles of hard, flat salt plains. The piles are part of the salt ´harvesting´process which ends up on tables and in kitchens in S.A.
Shrinkage?Shrinkage?
Shrinkage?

Not sure if it was the salt, but rachel seemed to shrink somewhat!
Salar de Uyuni IISalar de Uyuni II
Salar de Uyuni II

Chris was so excited he couldnt help it.
Isla del PescadoIsla del Pescado
Isla del Pescado

After a morning driving across the flats in the truck, we stopped at an ´island´ covered in giant cacti which gave us great views of the salar. They grow only 1 cm a year and some are 10m high!
Wet saltWet salt
Wet salt

Parts of the salar are covered in a couple of inches of water. We drove though the water for a few miles and then, 100m short of dry land the jeep spluttered to a halt!
Pueblito OnePueblito One
Pueblito One

After a day of driving, we arrive at our night stop. The beds were average but the bottle of rum we shared with our amigos helped!
VolcanosVolcanos
Volcanos

The next morning we saw one of Bolivias active volcanos.
The truckThe truck
The truck

The view for about 3 days.
Flamingos!Flamingos!
Flamingos!

AT 4000+m they seemed to be the only wildlife around. The lakes stank of sulphur from the volcanic activity.
Laguna something..Laguna something..
Laguna something..

Here we are!
JeepJeep
Jeep

in uyuni there are 60 agencies offering southwest tours. so we werent the only jeep when we stopped!
BaywatchBaywatch
Baywatch

Rachel in baywatch mode. This time with a red-lake background!
Laguna ColoradaLaguna Colorada
Laguna Colorada

A better one of the red lake. The flamingos loved it.
GeysersGeysers
Geysers

We left the second ´camp´at 5 am to visit geysers and watch the sun rise before the 500km drive north back to Uyuni. The steam was good to warm our freeeezing hands although it stank of eggs and was spitting hot mud.
Volcano IIVolcano II
Volcano II

We could walk all over the cratered and bubbling ground. Perhaps not that safe considering we couldnt see our footing.
Aguas ThermalesAguas Thermales
Aguas Thermales

A couple of miles later we got to another lake, most of it was covered in ice, but one corner had bubbling hot springs which were great to warm our feet and hands.
Laguna VerdeLaguna Verde
Laguna Verde

The last stop before heading back. Apparently green but it was more turquoise. On the Chilean border.
Big rockBig rock
Big rock

after chris climbed this, someone fell off and broke their arm. not good in the middle of the desert.
Finally Argentina!Finally Argentina!
Finally Argentina!

So after the 500ks jeep ride back to Uyuni, we got on a nighttrain and eventually got to the border at Villazon. So we only have 5121km to travel in the next 4 weeks!


24th April 2006

It all looks lovely!!!!!!!
Nice to hear from you two intrepid travellers, thought that you might be cruising across those salt lakes. I think I forgot to mention to you that you spend 8hours in a jeep listening to bolivia's finest tunes...i bought a cd of all that music so ill make sure to make you a copy when you're back!! Im really excited you're in Argentina...supermarkets!!!! Kellogs cereals!!!! and all the cheap wine that you're heart desires. Sorry to go on...but its well worth getting the cable car to the top of the town for the views in Salta. Make sure you go to Mendoza for all those wine and olive testing tours. Keep sending your emails they're brightening up my days!! Take care, Sophie xxxxxxxx
25th April 2006

wow! just had to drop a line and say how amazin that looks, im so envious! looks like your having a wicked time - good for u!! i know this isn't a chat forum for us particulary but Soph - how are u hun?! how's the course going? be great to catch up with u when im next in brum! anyway, keep postin these beautiful pictures u two, have fun, bec xxxxxxx
26th April 2006

Best photos so far! Amazing! Great to hear all about your adventures. All well with us.Love S,M,M and W XXX

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