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Published: April 2nd 2010
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Refuge Le Chemin vers l'Etoile
Packed up and getting ready to go. Disorientation
I know I do it - I think the sun is in the north. Its the natural place for it to be, isn´t it?
So I had a rough start to what was going to be a long day and added between four and five kilometres by going north, back into France, instead of South, on to Spain.
The climb
Route Valcarlos may not appear to have the climb that you get from Route Napoleon, but by the time one has crossed the river and climbed up and down ridges, it must be going close. Soon I began to regret every downward slope, knowing that whatever small elevation change there was would have to be recovered.
The route map I had been given the previous evening carefully avoided too much of the detail. The route climbs quite slowly for the best part of 15 - 18 km, then its a big whammy as one climbs from about 300m to 1000m over the next 5km or so, then a steep descent into Roncesvalles.
The gentle climb to start with hides some quite steep grades, but these are only tasters for the full blown long haul up to
that final ridge line. There were a couple of times when I felt that if I took my pack off, it would never get back on again. When I noticed that I was resting more frequently than I thought might have been necessary, I started counting out 50 steps. This re-established some momentum, so I changed to counting up to fifty in Spanish. I couldn´t get ´quatro´ in the right place for ages, but that was a bonus as it extended each leg between rests considerably.
Arrival at Roncesvalles
It was shortly after 6.00 pm when I reached the outskirts of Roncesvalles. I could feel my legs starting to twinge, and knew that I was not far short of cramping up. Got through the registration, and across to the alburge. Wal had arranged to be told when I arrived, and came over while I was sitting hoping not to cramp up. He might only have put his hand on my leg in sympathy, but it was just agony, and I snapped at him. Sorry Wal - it wasn´t a good time for contact, no matter how well intended and gentle.
The formalities
Wal and Martin had already booked
Refuge Le Chemin vers l'Etoile
Outside and one photo before we depart for dinner, and kindly arranged for me to join them. Soup, pan, trout and chips! Interesting meal.
Then it was back across to the church for the pilgrim´s service, with a blessing in several languages for the assembled peligrinos.
Bunk bedding again
Shortly before the lights out (10 pm) a group arrived who had followed the Route Napoleon, including a Canadian woman who bunked above me. The nightly offerings from above included her toothbrush, a green jersey and a rock tied up in the sort of wire used to seal champagne bottles and hung on a lanyard. This made Anna´s offering in Swackopmond appear quite paltry!
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Lee Fitzgerald
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Fantastic!
What a fantastic adventure. Bravo!