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Portscape
Seen from the Westport Quays, Co. MayoWith time running out, Dad and I cut east across the country from Westport, hoping to find some more cute towns in the midlands along the N4 highway. After discovering vibrant coastal culture in even the smallest towns we passed through, we took for granted that we would find the same in central Ireland. No such luck, though. We kept telling ourselves the next town might have more life, finally convincing ourselves that Longford, the largest town on the way, would have at least one music session going on. But we arrived at 6pm to find all the shops and restaurants closed, save the quirky Red Rose Cafe where an amusing, slightly sad, stream of Irish characters sat eating their home-cooked meals as if in a staged tableau. After a long chat with the woman sitting next to us, a snappy old thing with a sad story to tell of her police-officer-son buried in New York ("died of an aneurysm on the job, he did") and her forced emigration back to Ireland because of mental illness, we decided another night in Dublin might be more uplifting.
We drove our fastest, having mastered the maps and speedy left-hand driving, but were
Croagh Patrick
Holy mountain under puffs of cloud
Westport, Co. Mayo still too late to catch any open pub restaurants, so we followed a tip for late-night Chinese food on Parnell Street and feasted on Irish mapo tofu and dumplings before crashing out back at our good old hostel, Jacobs Inn. We awoke this morning to sunny weather, an unexpected departure gift from the Irish weather gods, returned the car (miraculously scratch-free!) and hit up the National Museum of Ireland for a gander at the decorative arts and history of this great nation. This was a great primer for what was to follow after our final authentic Irish meal - Beef and Guinness stew and Celtic Coddle (sausages, bacon and potato served in broth with a side of scrumptious brown bread) taken at Le Bon Crubeen restaurant. The grand finale to our tour was the musical interpretation of the story of Michael Collins, the heroic revolutionary soldier responsible for Irish independence.
Through the actors' strong voices, catchy tunes and dramatic choreography, dad and I were able to put together all the pieces of Ireland's story that had been told to us as we traveled around the coast. By the time the performance ended to hoots and whistles and a standing
ovation, we were pounding our chests with pride at the strength of this great nation and its brave people.
We wanted to finish off the evening at The Celt, our favourite little pub from last time, with one last pint of Guinness (for me) and Bulmers (for Dad) and a bit of live music, but the show let out too late for us to make it there before the 11:30 closing time. So we settled for a drink at The Quays (pronounced Keys by the Irish) Irish Music Bar. We walked in to hear the band strike up a twangy rendition of Bob Marley's "No Woman, No Cry," heartily sung-along to by a large number of American patrons and suddenly the pints of Guinness being served over the bar seemed to be the only Irish thing in the place; but they finished off with some Irish classics and our night was complete.
With our 9:30 and 10:30 (we're not leaving on the same flight) departures fast approaching, Dad and I are feeling a little sad about the end of this bonding adventure. Actually, Dad is sleeping right now, as I should be, but I know that he was
The Old Church
One of many gorgeous estates around Westport feeling sad before he went to bed. Though my blogs have described little more than the country, this has been a rare opportunity for both of us. Not only have we caught up on what we've missed in each others' lives the last seven months, we've made plans for the future, reminisced about the past, delving further into our family's history as a result of learning about Ireland's rich and fascinating past. Though this father-daughter vacation may be over, the next one can't come too fast; but neither can tomorrow's flight back to Montreal, so I can get back to my exploration of Canada and its music, people and history.
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satoko
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Your travels look wondderful. I love your pictures. Enjoy your trip!